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Found 33 results

  1. Took clones out of propagation around a week ago, past few days have noticed leaves curling around the edge’s (canoeing) I’m thinking environment as have been struggling with the cold some days I was checking it was sitting at 17c at lights on now have temps at 22c
  2. What are your thoughts on optimising your environment and nutrition? When transitioning from HID to LED lighting, it is important to adjust the environmental parameters in your growing area to ensure peak plant performance. The Dio-Tech emits less heat energy than HID, this should be compensated by either, adding heat to the room, reducing the speed of the extraction fan using a fan speed controller or both. This is important to achieve the correct leaf surface temperature. If the leaf temperature falls below its ideal range and gets to cool it will affect the plants Phyto morphology and growth rate as it reduces nutrient uptake and its ability to absorb Co2 due to its inability to transpire. The ambient air temperature of each grow room will differ slightly but as a rule there is around a 4°C differential between a grow room, running with HPS (high pressure sodium) vs LED’S. As a rule, a room running with HPS aims to have an ambient air temperature of between 24-26°C this puts the leaf temperature between 29-31°C. When transitioning to LED’S, the ideal ‘lights on’ ambient air temperature needs to increase to between 28-30°C (or 30-32°C, if supplementing the area with CO2). These increases in ambient air temperature will in turn keep the leaf surface within the correct temperature range. Humidity can increase if the grower reduces the fan speed on their extraction unit to elevate their ambient temperature. To combat this the grower may need to install both de-humidifier and a humidifier with controllers to work in unison to maintain the ideal grow room humidity. The ideal humidity (RH) is 60-75% for vegetative growth and 50-60% for flowering. If temperatures are too cool, growth will be inhibited, and nutritional issues can occur. If humidity is too high the risk of fungal pathogen infection increases. High humidity and lower leaf temperatures reduce the rate of evapotranspiration (the flow of water from the roots, through the plant and out of the leaves) this also reduces the amount of nutrition entering the plant and negatively affects the mobility of calcium and magnesium, which will lead to deficiencies. If temperature and humidity are not optimal, adding Cal-Mag at a higher concentration to your usual growth schedule will help compensate for this. Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is a measurement used to define how the temperature and relative humidity of a growing area effects the evapotranspiration rate of the plant. Using a VPD chart to set temperature and humidity parameters will significantly increase growth rates and yield. Digital Thermometer/Hygrometers are an essential piece of equipment for every grow room. A data-logging unit such as the Air Comfort will enable the grower to track environmental changes more accurately.
  3. There was a blog post on your site which I can't find that recommended extracting from the bottom of the tent to keep temps up - has anyone actually tried this and does it really make a difference? Are there any gotchas to watch out for such as filter performance or moisture differences?
  4. Understanding The Dio-Tech UVA/Far Red Infill Bars. We've had a few people ask recently what our Infill bars do, here's a breakdown to help understand what they do and how they can help! Photosynthetic Active Radiation or PAR refers to the spectrum of electromagnetic radiation that is visible as light. Plants use this light energy to drive photosynthesis, grow and reproduce. The spectrum is measured in nanometers (nm) and for many years it was agreed that the range of visible light (PAR) sits between 400nm and 700nm. At the low end of the PAR range is blue light and at the upper end is red light. Recent plant research states that expanding the spectrum of light outside of the “traditional” PAR range has significant effects on plant behaviour and that usable range is 380nm to 780nm. The Dio-Tech UVA/FR Light Bars does just that. It extends the spectrum to include not only visible light, but also UVA and Far Red, for optimal plant performance! First To Market Pre-Programmed TRUE Dual-Spectrum LED Grow Light. The Dio-Tech offers several pre-programmed spectral outputs, which utilise light recipes tailored to provide your garden with the ultimate spectrum at every stage of the growth cycle, The first to market pre-programmed TRUE dual spectrum LED grow light. Vegative Growth - When your plants are in the vegetative growth cycle (18 hours of light/6 hours dark) – they need a much higher proportion of blue light to prevent excess lateral growth during this early period. Plants grown with blue light have shorter internodal spacing averaging more flowering sites and have thicker darker green leaves compared to plants grown with a high proportion of red light. Flowering - Once you switch your photoperiod to 12 hours light/12 hours dark – you have entered the flowering phase. This is where the flowering heads are formed and the plant begins to switch its focus away from growth and into flower formation. Red light encourages the plant to flower (or fruit) and it can greatly enhance the rate of photosynthesis in the plant, allowing the plant to use this extra energy in fruit formation. Chlorophyl is very efficient at absorbing and using red light. Your plant also uses a lot of blue light during this period in the same way as it does through the vegetative period, to enhance photosynthetic rate and to prevent excess lateral growth. Flowering With UVA/Far Red Infill Bars - Optimise your plants performance and yield throughout the flowering period with our unique UVA/Far Red Infill Bars. Recent plant research states that expanding the spectrum of light outside of the “traditional” PAR range has significant effects on plant behaviour. Exposure to UVA can increase terpene, antioxidant, flavonoid, plant resin and vitamin production in your plant. Far Red stimulates a phenomenon called the Emmerson Effect – this is an increased rate of photosynthesis when plants are exposed to light of wavelength 680nm (Deep Red) and wavelength greater than 680nm (Far Red) simultaneously. This creates a higher photosynthetic rate that far exceeds the sum of the Deep and Far Red photosynthetic rates individually. We look forward to hearing everyones thoughts and opinions! -Control Team
  5. Thoughts On Growing with added UVA and Far Red? Photosynthetic Active Radiation or PAR refers to the spectrum of electromagnetic radiation that plants can use. Plants use this light energy to drive photosynthesis, grow and reproduce. The spectrum is measured in nanometres (nm) and for many years it was agreed that the range of visible light (PAR) sits between 400nm and 700nm. At the low end of the PAR range is blue light and at the upper end is red light. Recent plant research states that expanding the spectrum of light outside of the “traditional” PAR range has significant effects on plant behaviour and that the actual usable range is 380nm to 780nm. The Dio-Tech UVA/Far Red Light Bars does just that. It extends the spectrum to include not only visible light, but also UVA and Far Red, for optimal plant performance. Electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between 315nm and 400nm is classed as UVA. This wavelength induces a stress response within the plants, much as it does in humans, to develop compounds that will protect its cells from being damaged by prolonged exposure. Receiving UVA radiation stimulates the plants natural defences and encourages it to develop thicker, waxier leaves. This helps protect the plant against biotic stress factors, like pests, fungal and bacterial pathogens. Research also suggests that UVA deters certain species of sucking insects. Most importantly, exposure to UVA during the flowering period stimulates the production of resin, terpene and flavonoid compounds, and increases biomass. NOTE: We do not use UVB emitting diodes in our fixtures as this wavelength of light can be harmful to both plants and humans unless dosed for short periods of time. UVA can be on all the way during your flowering cycle while your lights are on – it is not restricted to 15 minutes per day, unlike UVB. Far red or FR is found at the opposite end of the PAR spectrum to UVA, it sits between 700nm and 780nm. It was widely believed that FR on its own stimulated little photosynthetic activity within the plant and that it was not included in the PAR range. This phenomenon was known as “Far Red Drop” as the rate of photosynthesis significantly drops beyond 700nm. However, later research by Robert Emerson found that when FR was combined with deep red wavelengths of around 680nm it becomes photosynthetically active and increases the photosynthetic rate beyond what is usually achievable below 700nm. This phenomenon is known as The Emerson Effect. This “stacking” of usable light significantly increases biomass and flower production. FR penetrates the leaf canopy more deeply than blue, green or red, so much so that exposure to FR triggers a shade aversion response stimulating stem elongation and flower development in plants as they try to outgrow and compete against the plants that are shading them. It is for this reason that we recommend only using the UVA/FR Light Bars during flowering. I look forward to hearing everyones thoughts on adding UVA and Far Red! - Control LED Team
  6. Do you grow with added CO2 Supplementation - If So How Do You Do It? We would like to start a discussion on how different people are using CO2! As Plants use CO2 as part of the process of photosynthesis; using light, CO2 and water to create energy for the plant. Ambient CO2 levels are usually 300-400ppm. As light intensity increases more CO2 can be utilised by the plant which will in turn allow the plant to use more of the available light and turn it into energy! We recommend increasing CO2 levels to between 600-1200ppm, this can be achieved in several different ways! 1. For smaller spaces, natural-release CO2 bags are an effective way to increase and maintain levels in your growing area. You can find these online or at your local hydroponics stores, Things such as ExHale XL Bag from Homegrown CO2 are a great option and will help gently and naturally increase your CO2 levels! 2.For complete control over your environment, we recommend a dedicated CO2 controller that will maintain set levels using bottled CO2 or a gas burner. When using CO2 bottles with a doser, using a fan-speed controller to reduce the speed of your extraction fan when dosing ensures your plants use the available CO2 while it is in the room. I'm Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts and opinions! -Control LED Team
  7. Hi all. This is a very simple question probably with complex answers. I am looking to buy an Environmental Controller that will allow me to control the following from a SINGLE box. Humidity Fans Temperature Heater CO2 Lights I am looking for suggestions on the best with the most functionality and also a community or knowledge base on using them is extremely important also. I would like something that has options like Day/Night Temp splits, Fan off when Heater on etc Also for talk sake lets say money is no object however that doesn't mean i only want suggestions of the most expensive, im really looking for the best controller to do this for my next grow room build. I have used Inkbird for Humidity and Root temp/Heater and i also have an Ecotechnics Fan controller but the support and KB for this device are woefully absent. Thanks for all your input and suggestions, JW Just as a side note i would be interested in more than one controller to do al lof the above but 2 would be my maximum in a perfect world.
  8. Hey up lads, I have seen quite a few people on here use the eco technics fan controller and I am in desperate need of help. basically I have been using it with out any problems with a system air rvk. Working perfectly great piece of equipment. anyway got some cash so thought I would treat me and the ladies to a new silenced fan which has more power than the rvk and obviously is quite as hell. anyway did the set up on the fans and I though it was working perfectly, so here’s the problem it runs well on the min fan speed but when it changes to full power (80% in this case) and corrects the temps/humidity and switches back to min, the fan still runs at full power even tho it’s suppose to be on minimum. it’s driving me crazy as if I’m out one day and it does this and I’m not there to correct it, it could mess shit up. any help or insights are much appreciated. I also reset the controller back to default to see if this corrects but it hasn’t
  9. Can you run a humidifier and dehumidifier at the same time? If not how would I take care of humidity @ lights off? What size for 3m x 3m x 2m space? Thank you all in adcance
  10. Hello there my fellow uk420ers, I'm looking at starting my 1st gro. I've got mostly everything I need but I'm just abit stumped on environment control, I'm not sure what to get to keep my room running at constant ideal temps\humidity and as far as I understand these are some of the most important things to have spot on! So any advice from you pro's would be really appreciated and if you need to know the equipment+room size I'm using to give me a definitive answer feel free to ask
  11. I'm planning 3mx3m space w/ 6x 600's to use end of flower. Air extraction 1080-1350m3/hr (depending on which fan I get) intake 800m3/hr. Inside target climate: 25-30°c RH 65-80% Avg outside climate: -2-10°c RH 60-90% Never used inline, kept running into low humidity this time want inline+humidifier. I played w/ online humidifier size calculator it said I need around 14-20kg/hr=14-20l/hr to keep up with extraction. Long story short seems like this is industrial size and way out my budget so instead wondering anyone knows how to make a humidifier maybe w/ pond foggers/mist makers+centi fan? I'm all ears to any advice, thank you in advance:)
  12. Want to run a humidifier+dehumidifier in my tent where each activates only when needed using inkbird controller, my goal is to maintain RH 75%-85%. Q's: 1. If I were to use humidifier/dehumidifier where would be the best place to install them? Close to intake maybe? 2. Is it pointless to run these when your extracting air 24/7? 3. Is there a way to calculate humidifier size? P.S. I KNOW HIGH RH AND CARBON FILTER DOESN'T MIX PLEASE LEAVE THAT TO ME
  13. Formula I've come across: Maximum amount of water you will ever give your plants(probably flush period) x the amount of plants. Problem is how the heck would could I possibly calculate how much water I'll be giving my plants?
  14. Planning on running intake&exhaust looking for a twin fan controller to help me control temps. Can anyone make a suggestion? & if you can remember the price paid it would be helpful since I'm trying to compare price. Thanks in advance:) & HAPPY NEW YEAR!
  15. Evening everyone, I've had a combination of large to small clip on desk fans in the tent. Currently, I use small 6in fans in each corner. I was thinking to get some standing venturi bladeless fans much like the Dyson fans. Just to save on space somewhat. What do people recommend? I'm trying to keep noise down to a minimum as well lately. With four big fans, I feel the noise might be too much. So was thinking a selection of smaller fans or bladeless for noise. All thoughts welcome! Tent size is 3mx1.5mx2m.
  16. Please move if posted in wrong place Hi everyone. Been reading on here for a while found a lot of helpful information that’s helped me with my first few attempts. Long story short I started growing to help my mum who had terminal cancer with pain relief, fast forward 18 months and I’m now on my 4th grow. I’m struggling to achieve gpw and think this is down to my environment. I have a 1.2m bloomroom loft tent. I have a 6 inch outtake with a rhino filter. Currently using passive intake with a bit of ducting from room below. Running a 600w hps with dimmable omega ballast. X2 oscillating fans, humidifier for veg. 700w oil filled rad for lights off. My fan is a rhino thermostatic but I don’t think the temp control is very reliable. I’ve been using 11l pots with pure canna coco. Using canna range a and b, rhiz, cannazym, boost and pk. Swapped pk for bloombastic on current grow as advised by someone better than me lol. Watering every 2 days up to 2.5L in flower! Don’t seem to be getting the growth I would like in veg and seems to take forever for them to gain size! Now for the questions please! Do I need an intake fan? If so what size? Recommendations on fan controllers for intake outake and heater? Or easiest way to control them all? Would I be better doing 9x6.5l? Less veg time? If so would I put them straight under hps from cutting? A lot more info to share with you guys if you need any to help me! Sorry to ask so many questions on my first post! Thanks in advance
  17. Hi buds. I'm posting this here as well as on my diary. I've already started with the 18/6 lighting cause the sprouts popped out and added the nutrients. However, I'm having a hard time setting the environment. My main problems are: 1. The 400w HPS bulb is hanging few inches from the top of the tent and I'm still getting a minimum of 28.8 C (in the picture I'd just switched the light on). Too hot :/ 2. RH has gone from 60-70%, which I considered ideal, to 40% with the lights on. Not looking good. 3. Water temperature is also a problem, even with bottles filled with ice the minimum I get is 21 degrees, and just for a couple hours. 4. I removed the air pump because of the noise and ordered a new one that's supposed to arrive on Monday. Not that it worries me too much because roots didn't reach water yet. All in all, I don't expect much from my first grow, as I understand hydroponics requires more experience and I'm a complete newbie. However, I would like to get tips from experienced growers and learn from my mistakes. Cheers buds!
  18. Hi all, This is my 1st grow and about a week into 12/12. I have noticed these shiny patches on a few leaves and some older marks have gone brown along with a deformed leaf. At first i thought water splash but have been cautious and more have appeared and on some higher leaves. They have been fed following the canna coco chart for hard water and normal feeding. So im thinking either environmental or perhaps deficency? I dont think its bugs as i havent seen any but then i dont realy know what im looking for?? My temperatures and rh fluctuated abit since going into flower as we had hotter days and i put in the extra light(250w2700k cfl). At the worst they hit 31°c and 75rh, i have since added 2 pc fans by a vent and temperatures have been more consitant at 27°c 55rh daytime and 20°c 40rh night time, but still varys a little. Im awaiting an extractor and filter when i got the money which im hoping will keep the environment more consitant. They are in a 1x1x2 tent with 2 pc fans by intake vent and a small oscilating fan inside. Lighting is 250w 2700k cfl, x4 55w 3000k cfl and x2 20w 2700k cfl. Thanks.
  19. First grow guys. Please don't bite. The search limit makes it difficult to self serve. We've just had our hottest May bank holiday on record and temps have been easy to manage in a 1m*1m tent with LED light and 2 cheap fans, no dedicated extraction fan fitted yet, The tent intake is passive, via a mesh window at the base of the tent. During those hot days, my temps were bouncing between 23 and 26.7. Happy days. It's got cooler recently and now I'm bouncing between 18 and 23 which I believe puts me on the borderline of shocking the plants. Today I'm fitting a 6 inch phresh extractor with manual speed controller in readyness for vegging. I feel that even at minimum speed, temps will drop further. So just looking for a cheap/low power option to get the temps up a couple of degrees and regulate them. My plants have just started producing their third nodes. Here is where my head is at... Digital LED Temperature Controller Thermostat For Aquarium Reptile AC-112 UK/ . £12 on ebay. with 250w Honeywell personal heater with a low/high setting hooked up to a cheap reptile thermostat. £30 on amazon which is a bit pricey. or 2000w portable fan heater with a low setting at 1000w. £12 screwfix. 500w oil filled radiator with adjustable mechanical thermostat. £20 screwfix. No need for a separate thermostat. Maybe I'll put the oscillating desk fan behind it so it is fanning warm air onto the plants. I'm concerned that the heat will just get sucked out of the tent and the plants get no benefit. Or maybe keep the inline fan switched off until the plants get bigger or outside temps pick up, and let the fans just waft the recycled air around in the tent with the door unzipped a bit. Or just crank the central heating up, fit the exhaust fan, put some inlet ducting to the radiator, close the passive mesh intake, close the door to the box room and keep the window open. Note : The radiator is under the window and the tent is located 1.5 meters away. Put my portable central heating thermostat in the grow tent and hope the tent is passively pulling warm air in. I also want a heating matt for my next grow. In summary. I'm leaning towards.... 500w oil filled radiator with adjustable mechanical thermostat and no bespoke thermostat. £20 screwfix. Hoping to rely on the integrated thermostat. 10inch * 20.75inch 18W Seedling Heat Mat Hydroponic Seed Reptile Plant Heating Pad £10.59 on ebay. Might try popping this under my pots. I'm still waiting for roots to pop out so that I can pot up into 0.5 litre root pouch. Thoughts guys?
  20. Hello im totally a noob to this but can see these forums are really the place to go for advice. Ive got a setup in my room in a little budbox tent and ive been using the window for intake air then exhausting into room. I understand this isn't the healthiest option but im limited for options at the moment. I do have a bathroom (with an extractor fan) attached to my room so im wondering is it possible to use the already fitted extractor fan as an intake by somehow attaching the duct from my hybrid flo fan to the already fitted extractor fan casing?- like cause im thinking the duct that extracts the warm/damp air could be used in the opposite direction to pull in fresh air if I put a powerful enough fan on the other end? or if not then would I be able to use it as outtake or would I likely need to fit a whole new extractor fan to be able to pull the air from tent threw duct then out to roof vents? any help appreciated thanks!
  21. 'sup 420ers, I'm looking for recommendations or advice about humidity monitors/loggers. I've seen all sorts of mega environment controllers available online in the £££-££££ region, but these are well overkill for what i need. I've also got a couple of those little battery powered display cheapo things but don't reckon much to them and they only show the readings on screen. I also know there's the arduino, DIY/programmable approach, but don't think i've got time to get into all that to learn how to do it. So, what i'm looking for is a relatively simple humidity monitor which i would leave in the GR constantly monitoring and recording the data, then periodically, take out and plug into my computer to view the readings. I'm sure there's plenty out there, hoping to spend less than £50, if possible? Has anyone got anything along these lines and can reccommend? Any pointers appreciated, Cheers dudes Wisjam
  22. Hey guys, so my seedling are at day 7 under t5 light in 1.2m grow tent. At which point should I turn the extraction fan on? Should I have done this as soon as they go in the tent or when in veg cycle? Just turned that fan on today and temps are stable but dropped 10% humidity to 68% advice much appreciated! Thanks
  23. Apologies if this has been beaten about already but I think i'm a give it a go, all I need is a poly box...... http://www.todayinmanila.com/2015/03/how-to-make-improvised-air-conditioner.html#.VZZiGHgk_zI Atb JTS
  24. Room: Garage, virtually seal aside from garage door and courtesy door. 2m x 5m Grow Tent: 1.2m x 2.4 x 2.0 Feed system: 12 pot IWS Flood and Drain Number of plants: 12 Lights: 2 x 600w lights Strain: 8 white widow, 4 pineapple chunk Exhaust: 150 A1 RVK Fan Intake: None - soon to come Tent Fan: None - soon to come Dehumidifer: None Lights on Time Temp / Humidity: 27-30c / 50-60% Lights Off Time Temp / Humidity: 18-21c / 75-85% Time in Veg / light schedule: 6 weeks / 18/6 Height: 2ft PH: stable 6.2 average EC: stable at 1.6 Base EC 0.2 Help, I got a right sweat box here! No shit, I hear you say. Hey up, so the girls are going to change to their new 12/12 regime and given this is my first indoor grow I concerned to say the least about the humidity with the lights off. After a previous outdoor experience, the mold was devasting, just seeing everything turn to dust. The garage is acting like a convection oven, as the hot air is not being vented to the outside world and only into the internal garage, the only intake into the room is a courtsey door into another room. I am loathed to start drilling ventilation holes in the garage door/wall to intake outside external air, opsec and all that, so I guess the only approach is a dehumidifer. This has been bugging me for ages and I think the answer is this: https://www.trotec24.co.uk/machines/dehumidification/ttk-70-e-dehumidifier-.html. Has anyone had a similar experience? Do you reckon this bad boy will do the job, perhaps focused on the last four weeks. I plan to have it situated next to the intake fan I intend to get.