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Found 589 results

  1. dwc

    I will probably be shot down for this but i will ask anyway and i apologize before hand. According to this study, it is possible to do a full grow without changing the reservoir and avoid any kind of problem with nutrient imbalances and pathogens by having cultures of beneficial bacteria, fungi and mycorrhizae that are supposed to regulate the rootzone. Plenty of testimonies online of people sharing their experiences doing a full run with only one change, or no changes at all, without having any problems. My res would be a 70L capacity with only 50L of liquid held (after insertion of net cup). Theoretically that should be enough to veg a plant for 15-30 days. Then i would be required to do a change as we go into flower and im adding different nutrients. Anyone with experience in No res change DWC grows? or only 1 change (from veg to flower)? do i drain the mix down to 1/4 left and fill it with a freshly made up one? what happens to the beneficial microbiome? or the root stimulants lost? I fully understand the concept of keeping a stable pH and temperature and what the fluctuation of ppm means and how to proceed based on those readings. I also understand the importance of replicating the natural environment of a rootzone. How do you top up the res whilst progressing through the grow schedule provided by the nutrient company? Should i just measure and mix nutrients based on how much water im adding back? For example, if my res is 50L and i'm missing 10 due to natural causes (evaporation, transpiration etc), do i make a 10L mix and add that to the existing nutrient mix inside the reservoir? What happens in case the grow schedule provided, tells me to use an extra product like a hormone or some other additive, do i measure that additive based on how much water i am adding back to the mix? or do i make a mix based on my total res volume (not 70L capacity but 50L of actual mix)? The study i linked above is referring to "Mass Balance" , if it is not in the water it is inside the plant, indicating that there is no such thing as "the plant takes some and leaves some", dropping of EC (or PPM) hours after feed is normal as the elements you added to the water are actively uptaken by the plant. Its when we keep "stabilising" that value, that we find the plants complaining about something going wrong. Do i make a mix once weekly based on how much water i am missing and then just top up with pHed water until the next weeks feed mix? A visualisation of that would be, feed on Sunday, then top up pHed water during the week, until next Sunday where I make a new nutrient mix (with say 1 extra additive) based on how much water i am adding back to the mix. Does that sound correct? Do you use products like Hydroguard or other similar US sourced products? What could be the best alternatives in the UK? Products like Orca and Great White powder (using either or, not both) are advertised to be providing a wide range of beneficial microorganisms, which (based on the study i linked above), if in abundance, should provide no suitable environment for pathogens. How would you go about maintaining that microbiome on the clay balls but also inside the reservoir? do i have to actively keep adding them to the mix until a couple weeks before flush? I am planning on running my very first ever DWC grow and i am trying to learn as much as i can before i begin buying parts. I'm not keen on shooting myself in the foot as i've done in the past, so "locking" myself out of certain ways because of choice of equipment would not be ideal, but i can see it happening. If there is no way of growing with minimal water res changes i would then go for smaller buckets, as i can have multiple of them and the frequent change of water won't be as expensive as the volume wont be as big. I have a very inquisitive personality (my wife calls it obsessive) i would like to understand why i am doing something, so if you have any knowledge to share, please do so. Thanks for any knowledge in advance, and again, im not being ignorant, just inquisitive. ^_^
  2. Hi All, so i guess i better start with a little back story to my current situation! Ive been growing for awhile and have used the same setup now for quite some time, MH for Veg and HPS for flower. I'd been considering upgrading to LED for awhile and have been following folks on here to see how they have been getting on. I decided to get a Scopex 900 when i sore they were available at just under 600 quid from DIYLED, a proper bargain by anyones terms! Now im in a 1.2m square tent (upgrading to 1.5m planned for my next round) so i new that the light was gunna be more than i needed for this round. So i decided to start things off the way i always do under a CFL to start,, then once potted and onto the wilma under a 250w MH. All was going well, ladies were topped and all 4 were looking grand, lush health new growth and no signs of anything but what was looking to be a outstanding round. So with everything running smoothly and the ladies looking in good shape (just shy of 7 weeks from seed) i decided to break out the LED and see what all the chat was about. This unfortunately this was the start of everything going very wonky and was just over two weeks ago now. First issue was temps, which i think may have cause a bit of shock as at one point they dipped to 19 for a short period. However i managed to get temps to sit between 23 and 29 with lights on and off for the following week or so then refined that range further. Second issue was the fact id been running a 24hr on veg, with MH this was ok but i think the 350w of LED was too much to run for 24hr straight so introduced a 20/4 cycle. Third issue was EC,, now at first i thought i had over fed cos i got what looked like burnt tips, EC was at 0.9 so i dropped it down a couple of points,, but very quickly realised that i had a falling EC ( and the ladies looked hungry) and upped my EC every day/every other as the RES EC just kept on falling after 12hrs or so,, this went on for 9 days, until i hit a RES EC of 1.9. By this time i thought it best to do a fresh RES as all this topping up is never a good idea for obvious reasons. So 4 days ago i did a fresh RES at 1.8 EC. And within 12hrs the opposite started to happen,,, the EC had risen 1.9! So over the last three days ive been going in revers,, every time checking the EC to find that it has climbed back up and then me lowing the EC by adding fresh RO,, until this morning when ive knocked it all the way down to 1.0. Suffice to say the ladies are not happy,, i dont know if one of them is gunna be recoverable and over the last 72hrs another one is looking proper sick. I think they have lock out,, but not sure what else i can do. I also think there is an underlying deficiency which is why i cant nail my EC. Ive suspected it was a MAG issue and have tried some foiler feeding a couple of times but to no effect. I havent wanted to introduce anything else feed wise into the RES as the rising/falling issue has not been solved. Sooooooooo, here are the details and some pics (taken 2 days ago) of my set up to provide a little more clarity to anyone reading. I will add close up pics from today as things are looking worse. This LED malarky has been a steep re-learning curve to say the least but with my environment now steady with temps between 23.5 and 28.5, EC @ 1.0 i dont know how else to combat the lock out/deficiency issue thats now causing havoc. Wilma 4 pot hybrid dripper + DWC. (decent roots in the res for all but the sickest looking lady) Drippers are on for 15mins 4 times during the light cycle. Advanced nuets A & B with RO water, system is chilled with water temps steadily between 20 & 21. A little silver bullet added to prevent pathogens. Scopex 900 running @ 360w hung at aprox 80cm above canopy in a 1.2m sq tent, 3 fans internally circulating the air + temp controlled extraction. Air temps are between 25-28 lights on and 23.5-26 lights off.
  3. Hi guys looking for some net pot help. either going with 96l wham heavy duty storage or the 150l model. 2 plants to a bucket. Planning on 4 inch rocwools as i have loads about. Any advice on net pot choice ? Guessing something with a bigger lip is better ? Any one recommend a size and brand? cheers in advance
  4. ITMA (see YT vid below) There is various advice for cleaning hydroponic systems on various websites. I've found several posts on here that also mention cleaning methods but didn't find a dedicated thread - so here's one Now that I have finished a grow in my IWS Pro kit, I need to clean it. So far I have: Drained the nutes out. Filled with plain tap water and left running for a few days (I couldn't do a clean right then due to a mini-crisis). Used an old washing-up brush to do an initial scrub of res,, brain pot and pots. Drained system. Used watering can to add water as I scrubbed the brain pot and pots again. pumped res., brain pot and pots as dry as I could with hand pump. Filled system with ~150lt of tap water and added ~500ml of thick Domestos. That has been circulating for about 7 hours now. I'll clean the net pots, pot covers and air stones separately. My questions are: Did I use enough bleach? I've seen mention of 10ml/100ml ratio (1/10) - 1.5lt bleach to 150lt water. I have enough foam already How long to run the system for with the bleach solution? What else ought I do before using the system again? Tagging the experts - @badbillybob, @stu914 and @zen-ken All comments, suggestions and recommendations welcome.
  5. The first leaves of my plants are dying off and the set above them are showing some spots. I’ve looked at all the diagnosing pics but can’t make my mind up what it is. I did have a few ph issues early on if that could be the cause? New growth looks ok (i think)
  6. Hi all, another noob question. I have a few leaves on my 3 week old girls that appear mottled. I know that new leaves can look a bit yellow to start but I thought I’d just check incase. Tia
  7. Hi all, I did my first res change yesterday in the dwcs, the water went in at 5.8, checked this morning and it was back upto 7.5 so I lowered it back to 5.8. 1 hour later its back upto 6.7. Clay pebbles were soaked and rinsed twice in 5.5 over 24 hours. Is it possible that I am airating the water too vigorously? currntly running at 0.6ec with: dutch pro silica - 0.1ml p/l Silver bullet - 1ml p/l dutch pro grow a+b 0.2ml p/l of each dutch pro grow PH down I don’t mind keep lowering it but is it normal for it to rapidly rise so fast? How often do you dwc guys have to adjust PH? Tia
  8. Hi all, I moved my seedlings into the DWCs yesterday so I didn’t have to keep moving them around incase I damaged the roots. I have the aquarium heaters on (tents in garage) and the airstones running however the pots are NOT in the water. Condensation is keeping the net pots damp so I haven’t needed to water but as I’m only using water and nothing else I cant keep the PH below 7/7.5. The seedlings still have their cotyledons and look happy but I’m worried about the PH killing them off. When I do start to add nutrients will this help to keep the PH stable and should I take any action now. I dont want to keep messing around with them if I don’t have to. Thanks in advance.
  9. Day 10 from first true leaves. Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second week from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hand writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.
  10. Evening all, My main grow is currently suffering. LED Qube 1.4m x 1.4m Tent Logic 900 ( 3 x Logic 300 ) - All three Logics are set at 50% @ 20 inches Currently Flowering - 2 x San Bacio Gelato & 2 x L.A Gelato Flipped DWC - 14th Nov 2020. Currently on day 40 of flower. Nutes - Current Culture - Bloom A&B, CocoCal, UC Roots & Bud Booster mid - EC 0.9. Temps - 20°c lights off - 27°c lights on - RH 45 - 60% - with Dehumidifier running when RH rises. Everything has been running smoothly in my DWC setup until about a week ago. I noticed my ppm meter was set to ppm 700 instead of 500 so I've been underfeeding. I saw 2 plants developing brown spots and put it down to underfeeding and it being the start of week 5 flower - possible looking mag def due to low phosphorous. I increased the feed and bud booster to EC 1.0. EC was dropping over the next few days so everything seemed fine. PH was in check ranging from 5.5 - 6.2. Looking back now the PH was constantly dropping due to the low feed and since increasing the EC PH has stabilised. Noticed the leaves curling inwards and thought the fresh res change would resolve it or maybe I'd added too much bud booster. Done a fresh res change last night with a lower EC 0.9 with less bud booster. Checked again tonight and all leaves seem to be curling inwards. I can't see any pests and have sticky traps up that are fairly clean. I've got 4 weeks remaining and was wondering if there's anything i can do to fix this? Any help appreciated. Pics to follow shortly!
  11. Dinafem-BigKush-BudBuddy1byeargrow.jpg

    From the album What's bubbling in the bucket now?

    Dianfem BK
  12. Dinafem-BigKush-BudBuddy1yeargrow.jpg

    From the album What's bubbling in the bucket now?

    The first 10 images are just some veg images.
  13. Hi aye everyone. im back with a totally new adventure. This time im back to growing in a tent , a new one. Its a green qube gq120, and i have to say, after years of so so tents its great to get a hold of a really good one. This one has thich solid poles, weighs a ton in the box, and solid zips, thick material and a viewing window. Its the bollox, truly.....if you're looking for a good tent, buy one. As well as a new tent , ive also got my hands on a couple of LED boards. These are loaners from a mate, and are brighter than the brightest star in the galaxy They are from INvisible sun, one is sporting lm561c chips, and the new one has the Lm301h, with extra far red and deep reds. Im trying them out to see if i want to go full on LED in the big room, and to see if i think its gonna be possible to do the kilo plant with LEDs. These will let me know, i reckon, i will see how they do. They are well made, and are in 3000k, so should be good for bloom. These are getting grown in dwc buckets, the smaller 37 litre boxes, with a small air pump and a single golf ball airstone per tote. nutrients are IOnic, grow and bloom, il try the roots axcellerator in a side to side, to see if it does anything. also got canna cal mag and pk, but i dont think ill use it. strains are white widow xxl auto from Dinafem, and critical + automatic from Dinafem. i will get some pics up when the seeds are cracked etc, cheers. I decided to go with autos, because i havnt done an auto grow for years, and being in a shed, i thought it would be a good idea to keep the temps up in winter. Beans have been cracked, tent has been put up and buckets are waiting in anticipation. Should be good fun,
  14. Quarantine grow of OG Kush and Gorilla Setup : 3.3'x3.3' grow tent 4'' Fan and carbon filter 300W of VERO29 DIY COB LED SCROG Net Nutes Greenleaf Megacrop Greenleaf CalMag Greenleaf Bud Explosion Mykos extreme bennies Had a rough start, my cheap PH pen broke the day I made my reservoir which resulted in my seedling being in 5.0 PH solution. Getting a new pen was pretty slow because of COVID19. The poor babies mutates and looked like shit. After 5 days of being in the corrected reservoir they look much better but are pretty beat up. The sativa phenos of OG Kush are looking pretty bad. Day 20 Of OG Kush Day 19 of GG4 Day 15 of Gorilla The GG4 is much bigger than the others and I'll try my best to train it to be even with the rest of the canopy. In red -OG Kush Sativa pheno In Green -OG Kush Indica pheno In purple -GG4 clone OG Kush Sativa phenos looking beat up 1/2 The other 2/2, looks fried, will it ever recover? OG Kush Indica pheno 3/3 OG Kush Indica pheno 2/3 OG Kush Indica pheno 1/3 @Dinafem-Mark
  15. hi guys just looking to hear from anyone growing in deep water culture, about the additives you put in your water, any setup tips and just any tips in general, basically just looking for as much info as possible, if you could try and keep it simple for my baked brain that would be great, thanks in advance
  16. When growing cannabis in hydro (RDWC), does it matter if the air temperature surround the leaves/stem/buds is high (e.g. 22-35 degrees C), if the roots are bathed in chilled water (at 19-20 degrees) constantly? I am starting a hydro attic grow soon, and my attic gets quite hot. However, I have a hydro water chiller that can keep the water at a constant temperature of my liking, and I have plenty of circulation fans. I can also, regularly mist the leaves of the plant if needed. However, is there any point at all in starting an attic grow if I can only control the temperature of the water reservoir?
  17. hHi, i usually run a sterile system, but lately ive been considering running some form of mycorrizal innoculant, such as TNC MYcorr hydro. My latest grow has got off to a piss poor start, due to too high temps in the room, and me not turning the lights down to keep them lower. i eventually did, but not before the damage was done. this resulted in higher water temps, as my chiller couldnt keep the water cool enough, it was over 24 degrees, which caused really poor root growth in some plants, and some staining, but no slime on the root. i usually have a nice big healthy rootball, but this time, its really poor. some plant roots look ok, others look really poor, little development of the root system etc Anyway, the point im getting to is root innoculants. Has anyone used the TNC one in dwc or rdwc (im thinking ahead here, for the next grow). im really wary but it says it has been developed specifically for dwc, flood n drain and recirc systems.. anyone used it? notice any difference? cheers
  18. Hello, It’s been a long old time since I’ve been on here but after moving house I have an ideal room or space for a 2m x 1m or 2m x 1.5m tent. lighting wise, I’m looking to possibly go for 2 x 315w CHM lights (if that’s enough) with the possibility of having some vertical LED corner lights? In the past I have only grown with 2 x 400 HPS filters etc. Had Autos In soil and had mixed results, 2 out of 3 were about 0.35 to Watt (not great) and one just smoked like hay!? Too warm I think. I am looking to either do a drip feed system/DWC (not an eBay one but more like IWS or Alien). I really like the look of the Alien 8 Pot XL EasyFeed System 30L by EasyFeed system but would probably go for a 1.5m x 1.5m tent? Would that be big enough? For fans etc would go for the Rhino Pro with correct extractor, what’s the best brand at the moment? I’m a property developer and also install home automation (Control4) since my last grow so this time I would like to be able to monitor the tents from my phone via VPN, I can do that part. I do know there is lots of solutions out there but I love tinkering and have Arduino’s, Raspberry Pi’s and breadboards around the workshop but would mainly looking for the following to monitor? Water / nutrient temp Water / PPI Water / PH Temp at root level (using multiple sensors) Temp at canopy level (using multiple sensors) Humidity Light Lux Anything else? Ideally after the first grow would look at automating the following: Lights on/off PH corrector Nutrient (PPI) corrector Temp corrector using fan speed controller Humidity corrector using dehumidifier Many thanks
  19. Evening all, I've been flushing my DWC since Weds and I've seen no fade of the leaves - I think she's fine and i don't want to open a debate about flushing. I know she could do with a another week as she's still hungry - ppm is @ 80 but PH keep dropping from 6>5.1 in 24hrs. She's on her 9th week of flower but i'm chopping early due to space. Would you chop her tomorrow or let her go another few days? Aficionado French Connection Pineapple Sorbet info Type: Regular cannabis seeds Genetics: (Heirloom Pineapple Thai x In The Pines F3) x (Zkittlez x Magnum Opus F11) Sativa dominant hybrid Flavours and aromas: rotten pineapple, fuel, guava, paint, lavender Indoor flowering: 7-8 weeks Outdoor harvest: End of September Yield: medium THC: Medium CBD: Some phenotypes have a THC:CBD 1:1 ratio There was an issue where I saw her getting red stems and thought she was getting too close to the light. Moved her to a bigger tent and she just flopped over. The stems just folded due to the weight of the buds and only 1 trellis net supporting the lower half. I added another net for support -3 weeks ago. Excuse the state of the photo's.
  20. This grow is for @HSO-Mark. This is a knew fast strain from Humboldt Seed Organization I will be growing the OGKZ first, and I plan on doing another new strain from HSO a fast-flowering Green Crack (this sounds interesting) next. The plan is to let her vegetate for about 3 to 4 weeks then flip her to 12/12. The veg tent is a DYI 2x2x3 with a LED Plant grow light that emits light between 449nm blue and 630 red. This light is only for vegging. The flowering tent is also DTI 2x3x6 with a Mars-hydro 300 led light in a DWC bubbler, with two separate air pumps. Well, I think I am ready to give it another go. Let the fun begin. Only one plant for now. (Keeping It Simple KISS) Indica/Sativa Hybrid - 80/20 Indica dominant strain, OGKZ has a THC is in the range of 24%. Effects are Cerebral, Long-lasting, Powerful Method: DWC 5-gal bucket. RO water. Medium: coco cord/perlite, root wool and Hydroton clay pebbles. Light Marshydro 300 LED. Flower DIY Tent: 2’x3’x6’ (expandable) with Panda wrap. Looking to buying a tent down the road. 5-gallon bucket. I plan to elevate the bucket by 4” inches; to facilitate water changes. 6-inch Exactor with speed controller and carbon filter. Exhausted outside, passive air intake. 1 Air pumps 40 gallon and 1- 10 gallon (flower tent), and 1 - 10 gallon for veg. 2- 6” clip fans, 1 - 10” stationary. Only using the clip fans at this time. I will be doing an LST with SOG net to maximize yield; but more so to learn how to do it better. Only one plant for now. (Keeping It Simple KISS) Nutrient: I decided to give GH Flora Duo part A and B a try; because I don’t think I will have enough HP Flora Grow series for the complete grow. Cal-Mag Silica Orca Hydro-guard PH up and down Epson salt if needed PH and TDS/EC meters. 3 temp./ humidity monitors – low, middle, and the third one will be for the veg. tent. Tent Temperature c / Humidity: ( ) I water November 25th, transferred to paper towel on the 26th tap root appeared 8 hours later - transferred to rockwool or maybe coco/perlite TBD, maybe tomorrow. Germination occurred at temp 21.5 and 49% RH in sealable sandwich bag. I know this may not be the norm, but it is what my readings are. Current bucket: RO water Bucket temp. Initial readings: PH EC TDS Temperature: c Humidity % If I left something out, I will update accordingly; but feel free to ask questions. Keep on smiling, BB
  21. Hi guys. growing in soil now for just about a year .1.2m tent 8 inch extraction Passive intake. . 600hps. Normally run 4 plants average between 10-14 oz with a 4/5 week veg. Not great numbers but the bud always seems good quality. Looking to go hydro to see if i can increase yield a bit . My environment seems decent. Average lights on around 25 lights off 17/18. Stay in scotland so very rarely outside temp is over 20. Looking at dwc single pots most likely have been speaking with @badbillybob and his info has been great. Is it possible to run dwc bubbler buckets and have good results with the chiller?. The recirc system i would need would be to expensive and building one will need to wait.
  22. Hi, I have used Plant Magic before for DWC and were happy with the results. I am using it again but have a question please regarding flowering nutrients. I am following the DWC grow schedule as per: http://www.plant-magic.co.uk/userfiles/downloads/52/UK DWC Feed Chart.pdf According to chart there are things added to the mix when the plant enters flowering (Bloom etc) but there is nothing taken away. I thought that during flowering the plants need less Nitrogen, and so was expecting that the chart would reflect this but it doesn't. Can you please clarify why it seems that we are only to add things during flowering and not take things (Nitrogen) away? My cynical side, says the PM just wants us to use nitrogen when we need not, but I dont know.... Thanks in advance
  23. HI ALL, HELP AND ADVICE PLEASE,,,, shes 28 days old, was running 5.8 ph and 550 ppm, she was looking fine,i fimmed her, 2 days later now she is dying by the day!!!!, first fan leaves turn and curl,and plant looks droopy!! 2 days later now leaves are drying out and crumble to touch, roots are discoloured a little, but shes NOT drinking as plant is slowly withering and as stated leaves are dry, been spraying 2 -3 times a day with ph water only, shes on 450 ppm at mo, with 10 ml cal mag and 10 ml hydroguard in 3 gallon please help!!! see photos thanks
  24. hi all! I have two gelato autoflower (fastbuds) and had them under a 125 cfl in a small res tank with veg feed for the first couple of weeks (1ml/l) I last night moved them under my HPS in flowering tent in 25 l buckets with 1.5ml/l of flowering feed. I've set my light at 250w as they are still quite small. Overnight they have all whilted to the extent that 2 leaves are now almost touching the bucket lids. My PH is 5.7. I have a cool tube which is hooked up to a 6 inch extraction but this is set to 25% with my fan speed controller. anyone any ideas? the feed surely cannot be too strong? the only thing I can think of is that they are too cold as the cool tube will be taking what little heat comes off 250 out of the tent. no discolouration or marking on leaves. any input would be appreciated.