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Found 36 results

  1. Hello, my fellow herb enthusiasts, I have decided to put up a short build guide for people considering RDWC. Now I have pictured 2 of my previous system builds, but unfortunately, the pigs stole them so I'm a bit limited in showing actual photos of various parts of the build. I have built quite a few of these over the years, each one has been a learning process, and not without disaster along the way, as u do. The systems shown will fit in a 2.4 by 1.2 tent (the 4 pot one) or a 1.2 tent (the 2 pot one) These are NOT undercurrent systems, they are simple recirculating systems, utilising 22mm spray bars for the delivery and 40mm returns to the res. I have located the res outside of the tent in both systems, because this helps keep the temperature of the nutrients cooler, and reduces the work for the chiller (i'll come to that later) So the system works by the process of pumping nutrient around the system, through the spray bars. This nutrient solution is highly oxygenated, with high levels of dissolved oxygen produced by the falling water disturbing the surface tension (which creates DO(dissolved oxygen). Now I'm not saying that this system is perfect or cant be improved upon, because nothing is perfect is it, its all a compromise in some way or other, before you all start slagging it off and telling me how I should have done this or that or whatever. I'm not really interested, ok? good.......... then we shall proceed Lets start with a list of stuff you will need to complete this build (2 pot system) The pictures are meant as a guide only as some of the stuff I describe is what I would do differently if I was to do it again 3No. really useful boxes (2 for the plants , one for the res) either 64 or 84 litre jobs (the more nutrient you have the more stable the EC and Ph will remain). this is why I use big boxes A hole cutter for 22mm and 40mm pipework. A number of 40 mm tank connectors (6 in this case), plus 40mm pipework, bends and tees to suit. I use solvent weld fittings, which do not leak if done properly, unlike the push fit ones. The solvent weld fittings are also cheaper woop woop. the down side is that if you ever want to move the system or dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw lol. A number of 22mm pipework fittings including bends, tees and pipework. I am not stating how many of each you use because it will depend on how you lay it out. I'm sure you are capable of working this part out for yourselves A water pump _ I would recommend a 4000l/hr one for this size system, the 4 pot system I used a 6000l/hr one, but should have gone bigger. A reducer from the water pump outlet to the 22mm spray bar. These can be bought off ebay as silicone reducers , just pump in the sizes, e.g 22mm to 26mmm or whatever it is. Stainless hose clamps to suit this reducer, both ends. various drill bits, a drill, A chiller- will depend on the total capacity of your system, for a 2 pot system I reckon you would be ok with a 150l chiller, I used a 300l one on the 4 pot system Maxijet 1000l/hr pump and hose to suit the chiller. Right, now to the construction part. we will start with the returns. these are 40mm, which are a decent compromise, you can go bigger (but they are expensive) or smaller (more likely to block with roots etc) So take your really useful boxes and lay them in the tent where you want them to go, this is how I did it As you can see the totes are side by side with the return pipes at the front and back of each box. Its always a good idea to set things out to make sure there is enough room for like lids to fit on (ahem), and all the pipework to fit etc. Now once you know where its all going measure out your pipes, notiing where each one goes. I lay them out on the floor the way they will go in the tent, makes life a little easier. The return pipes are attached to the box via the 40mm tank connector, which is solvent welded to the pipe When you drill the hole for the tank connector/ bulkhead, you want to try and get it very close to the bottom of the box,, BUT make sure you still have room to screw on the nut. When you get the tank connectors you will see a rubber washer type thing - this goes to the outside of the box ok? A word on solvent cement- you can get high as fuck off it so use in a well ventilated area (that's the health and safety pish out the way) Also, when using solvent cement, this is what I do to prevent bailing water out of the tent/ leaks . Saw cut the end of the pipe, then sand off the rough end where all the scrappy bits are, and a small chamfer on the end of the pipe. (Use 100 grit sandpaper or above) Make sure nothing is sticking out from the pipe, like rough edges etc Put the solvent cement on the end of the pipe, AND on the inside of the fitting it is getting connected to. Now stick em together, you don't get long. When I join them together I kinda push the pipe in and give it a 1/4 turn at the same time. wipe off the excess glue (don't put it back in the glue pot) Leave this for 15 minutes and it will be solid. So glue all the returns together, putting it in the box, measuring trimming etc as you go, to be sure it will all FIT properly. No point glueing it all together then finding out your 10mm out on a measurement has fucked half of it up is there. The returns are at opposite sides of the really useful box to equalise the return flow, so that the roots stay in the centre of the box. If both returns were at the same side of the box, the roots WILL migrate there and clog the returns. In the picture above you will see just below the spray bar Tee, the return pipes go to a tee fitting and then back to the res. If I was to do it again I would have 2 returns to the res, just in case the one was to block with root (unlikely tho it may be). The picture above also shows the spray bars, the 22mm pipe inside the box which delivers the nutrients to the tote. Drill the holes for these as high up the sides of the box as possible, you want as much fall from the water as possible. This one is drilled just below the top lip. These are done in a similar fashion to the returns, but it is easier to drill the holes for the nutrient to spray from before you glue the lot together. I use a small drill bit for the holes, and for this system, if I remember I had something like 4 holes on each long side and 2 on the short sides. I had these holes drilled in such a way to spray the water around the base of the net pot, about an inch or 2 away from the actual pot itself, but its not really critical where the holes go, as long as the water can splash on the surface, creating DO. The spray bars go to a TEE which goes to a single pipe from the water pump. A word of advice - the pump outlet has a reducer attached, and then it goes to the 22mm pipe. You will see that this pipe goes through the side of the res. there is a reason for this, which is - if somehow the pipe detaches from the reducer, it will not go flying out of the way allowing the fountain from the res to flood the room, as the side hole will keep the pipe in place. See pic below. Again if I was doing this again I would have the pump closer to the tent side of the box. this pic also shows the reserviour, outside the tent. You can see the single return at the bottom of the box. The red thing on top of the pump is the reducer Like a said, id do a double return next time, but you get the idea. If you look at the pic above, then this one, its like, inside the tent- outside the tent Here is my 4 pot system in action with spraybars (the spray bars are a different design, but the principle is the same). On the subject of dissolved oxygen, you can also add an airstone or 2 to this system. You don't really NEED to, but they help by creating yet more oxygen to the rootzone, like I did in the above system. so that's the spray bars and returns done, you are nearly there. For the net pots you need to make some holes in the lids. I use 200mm net pots, and to make the hole I devised a cunning plan, baldrick would be proud of. here is how its done. Mark the centre of the box lid, drill very small pilot hole, then get a piece of timber, and put a drywall screw through one end, so the tip of the screw ids protruding by about 3-5mm. then measure out 95mm and put another screw through the same amount. Put one screw in the pilot hole you drilled, and then turn the wood through 360 degrees scoring a perfect circle into the plastic. Then you just keep on scoring round and round till you eventually go through the lid , or it gets so thin you can cut it with a Stanley. Also when this is done insulate the boxes if possible, ive used Kingspan in the top pics, or even the silver reflective bubble wrap stuff for the lids is better than nothing, DO it. chillers - you WILL need one Chillers have a separate pump- a maxijet 1000l/hr job from the res to the chiller, and the warer will naturally return from the chiller to the res, , if you can try and get the return to make the water fall back to the res - more DO - you know it makes sense. Pop in your net pot, fill with hydroton and grow big fuck of trees. My first run in the 2 pot system produced 700grams from two (whisper it ) autos Mission accomplished. If I think of anything else I will add it. Mon the water
  2. Hello, It’s been a long old time since I’ve been on here but after moving house I have an ideal room or space for a 2m x 1m or 2m x 1.5m tent. lighting wise, I’m looking to possibly go for 2 x 315w CHM lights (if that’s enough) with the possibility of having some vertical LED corner lights? In the past I have only grown with 2 x 400 HPS filters etc. Had Autos In soil and had mixed results, 2 out of 3 were about 0.35 to Watt (not great) and one just smoked like hay!? Too warm I think. I am looking to either do a drip feed system/DWC (not an eBay one but more like IWS or Alien). I really like the look of the Alien 8 Pot XL EasyFeed System 30L by EasyFeed system but would probably go for a 1.5m x 1.5m tent? Would that be big enough? For fans etc would go for the Rhino Pro with correct extractor, what’s the best brand at the moment? I’m a property developer and also install home automation (Control4) since my last grow so this time I would like to be able to monitor the tents from my phone via VPN, I can do that part. I do know there is lots of solutions out there but I love tinkering and have Arduino’s, Raspberry Pi’s and breadboards around the workshop but would mainly looking for the following to monitor? Water / nutrient temp Water / PPI Water / PH Temp at root level (using multiple sensors) Temp at canopy level (using multiple sensors) Humidity Light Lux Anything else? Ideally after the first grow would look at automating the following: Lights on/off PH corrector Nutrient (PPI) corrector Temp corrector using fan speed controller Humidity corrector using dehumidifier Many thanks
  3. Hi all, First time grower and wanted to prick your brains! So I'll tell you my plans and if you can point in the right direction that would be great. So my set up is going to be in my concrete garage. It's going to be a diy set up made from a wooden frame and sheets of mdf. I was thinking of lining it with mylar. Size - height 1.7m, width 1.8m, depth 1.3m Lighting - From what I've read, the amount you yeild depends on what wattage lights you have. I read its 1 gram per watt. But there are other factors I believe. I was hoping to grow 6 beasty plants (scrog) under 2 600w hps lights. So if I've got 1200 watts (assuming the space is sufficient) over 6 plants that would be 200 grams per plant. 200 grams is 7 oz. I imagine this would be very optimistic so could I guess a conservative 5 oz per plant? I was thinking 6x 15Ltre pots. Is 1200 watts over 6 plants in a box that size ok? I'm also thinking of using coco? Not soil. And I'm not thinking if growing autos. Or are there too many benefits of autos to ignore. It's purely personal use so time is no issue. I'd rather wait and have a long veg time to increase yeild. As it's my first time I like the idea of a scrog grow as I dont fancy doing anything with too much room for error. What seeds do you reccomend? I'm up for trying anything. Would a carbon filter, around £100 be sufficient to get rid if the smell completely? This is my current shopping list 1x box (L=1.8m W1.3m H=1.7) Carbon filter/fan/ducting (4 inch) (£100) 2x clip fans (£20 each) 2x 600watt HPS lights (£70 each) Thero/humidity stat. 6x 15 litre pots 2x bags 50 litre Coco Do I need anything else. How long would you recommend for veg time? With the scrogg net, can you grow plants bigger and place the net higher up depending on how big they grow or is there a set height to grow before spreading the plant over the net? Thank I'm advance and sorry for.all the questions
  4. Looking on a single variac setup to control my exhaust tornado box fan wouldnt mind been abit more automated to go slow and faster when need to So what would i need to buy thermostat and some sort of relay Then the wiring what goes where? Should i wire the intake in so slows down with outtake thanks
  5. Diy led lights (F series strips) T his is a diy thread, for the diy guys, to diy a diy led grow light..Its the cheapest way to get a decent led light. Im not going to get too deep here. This is a basic guide with parts list with product codes to google, rather than a how to build it.. “what wattage do I need for my space” Strips. The Samsung f series strip. This features 144 Lm561C S6 bin leds. Driving them at the currents listed in the parts lists will achieve 2.2-2.35 ish µMol/j at system level. Warning! Don’t be fooled by the cheaper boards/strips.Genuine strips have the Samsung logo and are fully CE compliant. Heres the parts numbers for the strips.Google will give you the supplier. 3000K SI-B8V521560WW 3500K SI-B8U521560WW 4000K SI-B8T521560WW 3000k and 3500k will do veg and flower for weed, just buy whatever’s in stock. 4000k might be useful for mums or lettuce, micro greens etc Strips cost £28 each or you can get a discount on ten+ (including vat which they will add at the checkout) Drivers are easy to find, again just google the part number in the lists. TME is the best place to get them. Ill put rough prices so you know whats the right price to pay. heatsinks you want U channel aluminium. 1 3/4” wide 1” high and 590mm long. This is a very common size and easy to get. Framework you want 1/2” by 1” Unequal aluminium angle(Or whatever you can get. staiir nosing work great). For the length you need it a little smaller than your tent. So 60cm tent get 40cm angle. 1.2m tent get 1m angle. Just get it as big as possible.If your tent is 1.2m or bigger build it in two lights. Max spread is the game here. More points/angles of light over the area = “penetration”. The metal work you can buy cut to order online, or a local shop will do you it cheaper. Heat sinks cost around £4-5 each and framework is a couple quid. All the wiring/wagos/bolts ect be found easy on shitbay/scamazon. Or any local electrics shop. Make sure you get solid core wire. And your power cable is a 10amp one. Are you still here? Heres a chart, I think it makes sense Heres a list just in-case it doesn't. Prices are the max you want to pay really, you should get it a bit less if you get the metal cheap. . 150w. Total cost - 130ish l 2x F series strips. l 1x HLG-120H-48A driver (£40 max) l 2x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 2m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 3 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 210w. Total cost - 170ish l 3x F series strips. l 1x HLG-185H-48A driver (£45 max) l 3x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 3m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 265w. Total cost 220ish l 4x F series strips. l 1x HLG-240H-48A driver (£55 max) l 4x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 4m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 350w. Total cost 280 ish l 5x F series strips. l 1x HLG-320H-48A driver (£80 max) l 5x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 5m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 6 way terminal block l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 420w. Total cost 340 ish l 210w kit parts x2. 530w Total cost 440 ish l 265w kits parts x2. 700w Total cost 520 ish l 350w kit parts x2. The build its self is self explanatory really. Mount the strips last so you don’t damage them. Get the tape lined up right before sticking it as it WILL NOT come off once on. Wiring is the only tricky bit. Its a parallel wired system. All negatives from the strips go the the negative on the driver and all positives from the strips go to the positive on the driver. Here a quick paint wiring diagram, to show how to do it. I don’t mind helping out, if you have a question, just post it on the thread. It is a low voltage system (47V) but still be careful, take time stripping wires right, cable tie them to the frame. If you can see any exposed core you have fucked it, try again. DISCLAIMER- key accepts no responsibility for damage caused to persons, or property. This is not electrical advise, just a parts guide. Don’t pm me asking where to get stuff , post questions in this thread. PMs will be ignored. @mods Any issues with this please let me know.
  6. Hi, I'd appreciate some help, please. I have an Oxypot v4 (a huge tub and lid with 4 plant sites) and I'm thinking of connecting another one to each other. The tubs have steeply sloping sides and I'm concerned about leaks from a tank connector. I'm planning on using 22mm push fit plumbing with a straight pipe link of 20cm (shorter pipe=less bendy which might cause a problem?). Any thoughts, please? Thanks.
  7. Luminus cxm22 gen4 cob kits diy grow light led grow light uk cob uk led uk420 quantum board. After nearly a year waiting, the Lmuinus gen4 cobs are now available. Gen3 was 2.3 umol/j, Gen4 has a 7% increase in efficiency and now on par with the Samsung midpower leds. The main benefits of cob lighting is the 90cri spectrum and the adaptability/upgradability of the system. For the DIY guys we have the bare cobs and DIY light engines. I recommend buying the light engines and your own driver, you can save a chunk off our kit prices doing so, but it does require a bit of knowledge. Bare cobs for upgrading. = £15.99 Preassembled Light engines for DIY projects. = £44.99 All DIY Kits are prices at £1 per watt and feature passive pin heatsinks, white aluminium framework and remote mounted meanwell drivers with dimming knobs. They are made to fit the specified area. But of course, we can adjust them to suit any area, create custom units, increase efficiency and even add other spectrum's. 160w DIY kit = £159.99. Ideal for a 60cm x 60cm area 250w DIY kit = £249.99 Ideal for a 80cm x 80cm area 320w DIY kit = £319.99 Ideal for a 90cm x 90cm or push to a 1m x 1m 500w DIY kit = £499.99 Ideal for a 1.2m x 1.2m area 750w DIY kit = £749.99 Ideal for a 1.5m x 1.5m area Pictures are PAR data will be posted when i get the time. Heres a few pics to show the layout of the systems. 75w per light engine. Any questions about the CXM kits post it here please. Thanks to all whos already ordered one. Enjoy your weekend Adam.
  8. Hey guys, i've been eyeing this up for a couple of weeks now and can't seem to figure out what im looking at. So I have two closets side by side. One has the immersion heater and the other is empty and houses my grow tent. I currently have an extension lead plugged in to the wall across the corridor from the closet, trailing along the floor and then in to my grow tent. Not Ideal as i keep tripping on it and its not very stealthy. I want to figure out a way of wiring the extension lead inside of the closet utilising the electric pints that are already in there, which appear to be an old house alarm (de-activated) and the immersion controller. Im not very electric-savy so I thought i should ask in here before I blow something up. I've got my grow tent set up in the small empty closet next to the immersion closet. The two closets are side by side. In the immersion closet theres the immersion heater tank, some shelves and the control switch for it on the wall with some grounding wires attached to a copper pipe and some other green (grounding wires also?) wire going through the wall in to my grow closet. Pic below: The two white wires coming out the bottom of the box go down to the water heater and are connected straight in to its heating elements. Its the green and yellow wires that go through the wall that have my attention as something to tap in to for an extension plug outlet. This is the old house alarm panel on the opposite side that wall and where that green wire leads to: Having a hard time figuring out whats what in here and how i would even go about wiring an extension cord on to any of this....Anyone have any ideas? Im completely stumped here!
  9. I'm planning 3mx3m space w/ 6x 600's to use end of flower. Air extraction 1080-1350m3/hr (depending on which fan I get) intake 800m3/hr. Inside target climate: 25-30°c RH 65-80% Avg outside climate: -2-10°c RH 60-90% Never used inline, kept running into low humidity this time want inline+humidifier. I played w/ online humidifier size calculator it said I need around 14-20kg/hr=14-20l/hr to keep up with extraction. Long story short seems like this is industrial size and way out my budget so instead wondering anyone knows how to make a humidifier maybe w/ pond foggers/mist makers+centi fan? I'm all ears to any advice, thank you in advance:)
  10. Hi all @UK420 So, this is the first part of a three part post I will share, it’s ongoing. Im done with the tents. Not much flexibility for me with them, I got 4 in one room. Done with them all now. This is a flower room build to hold between 16 and 21 plants hopefully, lighting set up will be 2 x 600 watt dimmable HPS and 2 x 1000 cheap led lights. I’m a soil and pots guy. Measures about 2m w, 1.5 m l, 1.9 m h The first part (Basic build up) is 90% complete 2nd part will be inside the room, any diy gadgets, ideas, lighting and air circulation. 3rd part will be final decor, always wanted to pimp out my growroom (inside out) I was thinking logos and posters of my fav strains and seed breeders. Any suggestions, creative critics welcome and appreciated especially from those who have diy set ups.
  11. Greenhouse shelf

    From the album Summer 2019

  12. Hey again, checking in for some help and advice, Working with an under stairs style cupboard, It's roughly 5ft deep by 3ft wide and at the tallest point it's 8ft and smallest point 5ft, I did the Math rounding everything up to give some headroom, the space has a volume of 3.75m3, so would need extraction of 300m3/h A 4 inch rhino fan advertises as being able to provide us a healthy 420m3/h, if true this would more than cover my space, right? Thanks all.
  13. Pot noodle prep

    From the album Summer 2019

  14. Pot noodle drainage

    From the album Summer 2019

  15. From the album DIY Grow Room Build

    Images of my DIY grow room build project (ongoing)
  16. Hi all After completing two consecutive grow diaries on here I am at the point now of looking to change a couple of lighting aspects in my room, you can see my lighting set up on any of my sigs below. But as a long story put short, in my loft room, (which has a grow space of 2.3m wide, 1m long with lights hanging at 1.8m high), I am currently using a 400w Meizhi unit for the left hand side of my space, with a 600w HPS in the middle raised slightly higher due to hot spots they give, with a MARS 600w on the right side of the room. After using these lights now for 2 grows on the bounce now my findings are that the MARS light is crap and kicks out popcorn IMO. The meizhi grows well in the middle of its footprint but does not give a high enough par in the corners of its footprint, so nice buds in the middle but popcorn again on the outside, but with the HPS next to it gives good crossover and this is where the best colas are formed. Now, as a skint northerner I cannot afford top dog equipment (like the Gammablaster or a KIND), but I do okay. I am looking into the possibility of upgrading my setup and want to know if making a quantum board or an equivalent of these is possible to do in the UK right now? Or at bare minimum a unit that can replace the MARS bar piece of turd. Longer term, I also want to get the HPS out there before the summer comes as lofts get really hot, and while winter is manageable for keeping temps up with the HPS and a heater, summertime I need the coolest units I can run. So me and a friend are looking at learning how to make a unit, I am aware I can buy QB's online, but does anybody know how to, or if its possible right now? Ive seen them in action and they do look good, but what would the cost of the parts be to supply and run in a 2m x 1m area? This would be for flowering only, given a week or so of veg time, but I have another cab for that. So thats where Im at, or do I just buy that big ass kingbo unit on amazon lol? At this stage, any information would be useable right now, if you need to see my setup the critical orange punch diray is the lastest and you can see the dimensions/space I run this hobby in. Thanks for your time in reading. Peace MMT
  17. Rosin plates

    From the album DIY

  18. Rosin plates

    From the album DIY

  19. Thought I would show how to purge air or fill the pump with hydraulic fluid.. Sometimes you can loose pressure and not have any leaks with a new press or when it's moved..The way to fix it is quite easy..My new press came without enough fluid in the pump,so I filled it up and bled it the following way...Most of the press stuff I do will now be in here, lots of info in the sig from old threads... its also good to add ptfe plumbers tape to any thread on the hydraulics even if they look ok.. the hydraulic oil I use for top up is from machinemart The press used, most bleed the same way... The next pic shows the "dipstick" bolt , the bottom of the thread should have oil on it there is no level mark, just so the threads covered..Best to check when the pump is verticle..Undo the big black "dipstick" bolt .. then bellow is a sliver thumb bolt, this is for letting air out the system and also for filling up with fluid...IF no oil on "dipstick" undo the silver thumb bolt and slowly top up fluid..When the "dipstick" bolt has oil on the thread at bottom the level is correct.. The next pic shows bottom of pump , the release valve.. after you have done up dipstick bolt and silver thumb bolt for air up top open the release valve a good half turn...Then undo silver thumb bolt again, give the handle around ten full strokes, when handle verticle with pump screw shut the silver thumb screw first ,then do up release valve.... The press should now have correct level of fluid and no air in system and active and hold pressure ... How handle should be when shut all release and air release bolt... Thats it for now till next time take it easy....
  20. Okay dudes, I'm not sure if this has ever been posted before and I have searched and not seen anything, so here goes. Its been ages since I've posted anything DIY related but this is a really, really cool thing I've learned over the years. This shit is best made in a HUGE bucket with a handheld plaster mixer if you have one. Or for the smaller grow ops, you can just down size everything. What you'll need is Water Storing Crystals ONA Liquid Concentrate Water *Optional Food coloring if your into that kinda thing.. First its handy to know that the water storing Xtal can swell up to 40 times its own size so Its quite hard to over do it. Get a tablespoon of the water xtal in a plastic bowl or whatever you wanna mix it in. Mix a few tablespoons of ONA into a litre of water. Pour half the ONA liquid mix you made over the xtal and then stir. Leave for a few mins to swell - then add some more of the mix. Once to your desired lumpiness put into a container or whatever you want where it will make nice smells If you have some really stinky shit on the g-row, you can always add a stronger ONA Liquid mixture. That's it - Save some cash..
  21. So, after a very poor start on my new grow (link below) I decided to get a little ahead of myself by building a small space for germination and early veg (up to three weeks tops) in a small bedside closet... http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?/topic/383478-skunk-1-applejack/ The aim is simply to get a few seeds germinated and vegged to a point where they can go under HPS without needing any special treatment (e.g. high hanging lighting) that might upset anything growing there. The hope is, I can get back to having more than one plant on the go now that all attempts to germinate my applejack seeds has failed. Its all very basic and its pretty much just begun - lots still to do: vent in will be passive, extraction likely passive too as I'll only be running 30 - 60watt CFL in there, could still get warm I know... we'll see. The box needs to be light sealed everywhere, at present it is as shown in the photographs, a flat white interior space with 30watt CFL and the beginnings of a passive intake i the bottom left. I plan to keep seedlings elevated above that and to add a small tube should things get chilly! OK, its not stealthy! But that's OK, its going to be covered - besides, its not the most obvious growing structure in my place and its going to be placed well away from any eyes. So, all I have done so far is to remove the floor of the drawer, paint everything inside flat white, drill four holes for lighting, add a hook to suspend lights (original ideal was to fit them to hang horizontally - hanging gives me more flexibilty in terms of placement), the beginnings of an intake can be seen in the lower left corner - still to drill out a few more holes and ten drill extraction in the upper right corner - if need be, I'll add a computer fan for extraction, but I am hopeful that a small fan at floor level and convection will move enough air in and out without that - we'll see. Burning a full 30watts, that's right, a full 30watts of CFL! I may up that to 60watts, though given my aim of vegging for 2wks (3 tops) 30 watts might be enough just to get things moving. Any thoughts, anything obvious I have missed! Cheers!!
  22. Simple germenation and early veg box

    From the album Skunk #1 & Applejack

  23. https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/b6t/KSD301-120C-Celsius-Temperature-Control-Switch-Thermostat/B007Q81I7I/ref=pd_day0_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A0VR8QNSX7ZZ7Z2VNK16 I have fitted a switch to turn on the fans (something like the above) when the temp reaches 20C It is an epic fail on my part and was wandering what ANALOG unpowered thermostat (because it is in a greenhouse) I could use instead or is there a way of fitting this I missed?. In the above example I wired the live to either side of the switch leaving neutral running to the fans. It was 13C the other night and the fans were happily whirring away :'-(
  24. diy

    hi guys can someone plz help ive recently wired up a twin variac fan controller, had some major issues at the start but rebuilt it from strach using a multi-meter testing as i go.. now i think ive sussed it but my variacs after time just continue to get hotter and hotter i turned them off when they reached 35C... i think they are wired correctly ive check various threads on here and it seems all good checked it with the multi-meter reads what it should when it should... now i did arc the variacs early one (school boy error very high) could this have damaged them to cause this... ive not earthed the variac themselves ive seen a few people commenting on here but it doesnt appear in any of the steps or photos??? i have netural to a output live e input live c the netural runs straight into the rely then branching off to the atc800+, variacs & neutral out to the fans
  25. Day 1 12/12.jpg

    From the album LED Quantum Board Grows