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Found 22 results

  1. Diy led lights (F series strips) T his is a diy thread, for the diy guys, to diy a diy led grow light..Its the cheapest way to get a decent led light. Im not going to get too deep here. This is a basic guide with parts list with product codes to google, rather than a how to build it.. “what wattage do I need for my space” Strips. The Samsung f series strip. This features 144 Lm561C S6 bin leds. Driving them at the currents listed in the parts lists will achieve 2.2-2.35 ish µMol/j at system level. Warning! Don’t be fooled by the cheaper boards/strips.Genuine strips have the Samsung logo and are fully CE compliant. Heres the parts numbers for the strips.Google will give you the supplier. 3000K SI-B8V521560WW 3500K SI-B8U521560WW 4000K SI-B8T521560WW 3000k and 3500k will do veg and flower for weed, just buy whatever’s in stock. 4000k might be useful for mums or lettuce, micro greens etc Strips cost £28 each or you can get a discount on ten+ (including vat which they will add at the checkout) Drivers are easy to find, again just google the part number in the lists. TME is the best place to get them. Ill put rough prices so you know whats the right price to pay. heatsinks you want U channel aluminium. 1 3/4” wide 1” high and 590mm long. This is a very common size and easy to get. Framework you want 1/2” by 1” Unequal aluminium angle(Or whatever you can get. staiir nosing work great). For the length you need it a little smaller than your tent. So 60cm tent get 40cm angle. 1.2m tent get 1m angle. Just get it as big as possible.If your tent is 1.2m or bigger build it in two lights. Max spread is the game here. More points/angles of light over the area = “penetration”. The metal work you can buy cut to order online, or a local shop will do you it cheaper. Heat sinks cost around £4-5 each and framework is a couple quid. All the wiring/wagos/bolts ect be found easy on shitbay/scamazon. Or any local electrics shop. Make sure you get solid core wire. And your power cable is a 10amp one. Are you still here? Heres a chart, I think it makes sense Heres a list just in-case it doesn't. Prices are the max you want to pay really, you should get it a bit less if you get the metal cheap. . 150w. Total cost - 130ish l 2x F series strips. l 1x HLG-120H-48A driver (£40 max) l 2x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 2m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 3 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 210w. Total cost - 170ish l 3x F series strips. l 1x HLG-185H-48A driver (£45 max) l 3x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 3m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 265w. Total cost 220ish l 4x F series strips. l 1x HLG-240H-48A driver (£55 max) l 4x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 4m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 350w. Total cost 280 ish l 5x F series strips. l 1x HLG-320H-48A driver (£80 max) l 5x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 5m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 6 way terminal block l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 420w. Total cost 340 ish l 210w kit parts x2. 530w Total cost 440 ish l 265w kits parts x2. 700w Total cost 520 ish l 350w kit parts x2. The build its self is self explanatory really. Mount the strips last so you don’t damage them. Get the tape lined up right before sticking it as it WILL NOT come off once on. Wiring is the only tricky bit. Its a parallel wired system. All negatives from the strips go the the negative on the driver and all positives from the strips go to the positive on the driver. Here a quick paint wiring diagram, to show how to do it. I don’t mind helping out, if you have a question, just post it on the thread. It is a low voltage system (47V) but still be careful, take time stripping wires right, cable tie them to the frame. If you can see any exposed core you have fucked it, try again. DISCLAIMER- key accepts no responsibility for damage caused to persons, or property. This is not electrical advise, just a parts guide. Don’t pm me asking where to get stuff , post questions in this thread. PMs will be ignored. @mods Any issues with this please let me know.
  2. Hello, my fellow herb enthusiasts, I have decided to put up a short build guide for people considering RDWC. Now I have pictured 2 of my previous system builds, but unfortunately, the pigs stole them so I'm a bit limited in showing actual photos of various parts of the build. I have built quite a few of these over the years, each one has been a learning process, and not without disaster along the way, as u do. The systems shown will fit in a 2.4 by 1.2 tent (the 4 pot one) or a 1.2 tent (the 2 pot one) These are NOT undercurrent systems, they are simple recirculating systems, utilising 22mm spray bars for the delivery and 40mm returns to the res. I have located the res outside of the tent in both systems, because this helps keep the temperature of the nutrients cooler, and reduces the work for the chiller (i'll come to that later) So the system works by the process of pumping nutrient around the system, through the spray bars. This nutrient solution is highly oxygenated, with high levels of dissolved oxygen produced by the falling water disturbing the surface tension (which creates DO(dissolved oxygen). Now I'm not saying that this system is perfect or cant be improved upon, because nothing is perfect is it, its all a compromise in some way or other, before you all start slagging it off and telling me how I should have done this or that or whatever. I'm not really interested, ok? good.......... then we shall proceed Lets start with a list of stuff you will need to complete this build (2 pot system) The pictures are meant as a guide only as some of the stuff I describe is what I would do differently if I was to do it again 3No. really useful boxes (2 for the plants , one for the res) either 64 or 84 litre jobs (the more nutrient you have the more stable the EC and Ph will remain). this is why I use big boxes A hole cutter for 22mm and 40mm pipework. A number of 40 mm tank connectors (6 in this case), plus 40mm pipework, bends and tees to suit. I use solvent weld fittings, which do not leak if done properly, unlike the push fit ones. The solvent weld fittings are also cheaper woop woop. the down side is that if you ever want to move the system or dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw lol. A number of 22mm pipework fittings including bends, tees and pipework. I am not stating how many of each you use because it will depend on how you lay it out. I'm sure you are capable of working this part out for yourselves A water pump _ I would recommend a 4000l/hr one for this size system, the 4 pot system I used a 6000l/hr one, but should have gone bigger. A reducer from the water pump outlet to the 22mm spray bar. These can be bought off ebay as silicone reducers , just pump in the sizes, e.g 22mm to 26mmm or whatever it is. Stainless hose clamps to suit this reducer, both ends. various drill bits, a drill, A chiller- will depend on the total capacity of your system, for a 2 pot system I reckon you would be ok with a 150l chiller, I used a 300l one on the 4 pot system Maxijet 1000l/hr pump and hose to suit the chiller. Right, now to the construction part. we will start with the returns. these are 40mm, which are a decent compromise, you can go bigger (but they are expensive) or smaller (more likely to block with roots etc) So take your really useful boxes and lay them in the tent where you want them to go, this is how I did it As you can see the totes are side by side with the return pipes at the front and back of each box. Its always a good idea to set things out to make sure there is enough room for like lids to fit on (ahem), and all the pipework to fit etc. Now once you know where its all going measure out your pipes, notiing where each one goes. I lay them out on the floor the way they will go in the tent, makes life a little easier. The return pipes are attached to the box via the 40mm tank connector, which is solvent welded to the pipe When you drill the hole for the tank connector/ bulkhead, you want to try and get it very close to the bottom of the box,, BUT make sure you still have room to screw on the nut. When you get the tank connectors you will see a rubber washer type thing - this goes to the outside of the box ok? A word on solvent cement- you can get high as fuck off it so use in a well ventilated area (that's the health and safety pish out the way) Also, when using solvent cement, this is what I do to prevent bailing water out of the tent/ leaks . Saw cut the end of the pipe, then sand off the rough end where all the scrappy bits are, and a small chamfer on the end of the pipe. (Use 100 grit sandpaper or above) Make sure nothing is sticking out from the pipe, like rough edges etc Put the solvent cement on the end of the pipe, AND on the inside of the fitting it is getting connected to. Now stick em together, you don't get long. When I join them together I kinda push the pipe in and give it a 1/4 turn at the same time. wipe off the excess glue (don't put it back in the glue pot) Leave this for 15 minutes and it will be solid. So glue all the returns together, putting it in the box, measuring trimming etc as you go, to be sure it will all FIT properly. No point glueing it all together then finding out your 10mm out on a measurement has fucked half of it up is there. The returns are at opposite sides of the really useful box to equalise the return flow, so that the roots stay in the centre of the box. If both returns were at the same side of the box, the roots WILL migrate there and clog the returns. In the picture above you will see just below the spray bar Tee, the return pipes go to a tee fitting and then back to the res. If I was to do it again I would have 2 returns to the res, just in case the one was to block with root (unlikely tho it may be). The picture above also shows the spray bars, the 22mm pipe inside the box which delivers the nutrients to the tote. Drill the holes for these as high up the sides of the box as possible, you want as much fall from the water as possible. This one is drilled just below the top lip. These are done in a similar fashion to the returns, but it is easier to drill the holes for the nutrient to spray from before you glue the lot together. I use a small drill bit for the holes, and for this system, if I remember I had something like 4 holes on each long side and 2 on the short sides. I had these holes drilled in such a way to spray the water around the base of the net pot, about an inch or 2 away from the actual pot itself, but its not really critical where the holes go, as long as the water can splash on the surface, creating DO. The spray bars go to a TEE which goes to a single pipe from the water pump. A word of advice - the pump outlet has a reducer attached, and then it goes to the 22mm pipe. You will see that this pipe goes through the side of the res. there is a reason for this, which is - if somehow the pipe detaches from the reducer, it will not go flying out of the way allowing the fountain from the res to flood the room, as the side hole will keep the pipe in place. See pic below. Again if I was doing this again I would have the pump closer to the tent side of the box. this pic also shows the reserviour, outside the tent. You can see the single return at the bottom of the box. The red thing on top of the pump is the reducer Like a said, id do a double return next time, but you get the idea. If you look at the pic above, then this one, its like, inside the tent- outside the tent Here is my 4 pot system in action with spraybars (the spray bars are a different design, but the principle is the same). On the subject of dissolved oxygen, you can also add an airstone or 2 to this system. You don't really NEED to, but they help by creating yet more oxygen to the rootzone, like I did in the above system. so that's the spray bars and returns done, you are nearly there. For the net pots you need to make some holes in the lids. I use 200mm net pots, and to make the hole I devised a cunning plan, baldrick would be proud of. here is how its done. Mark the centre of the box lid, drill very small pilot hole, then get a piece of timber, and put a drywall screw through one end, so the tip of the screw ids protruding by about 3-5mm. then measure out 95mm and put another screw through the same amount. Put one screw in the pilot hole you drilled, and then turn the wood through 360 degrees scoring a perfect circle into the plastic. Then you just keep on scoring round and round till you eventually go through the lid , or it gets so thin you can cut it with a Stanley. Also when this is done insulate the boxes if possible, ive used Kingspan in the top pics, or even the silver reflective bubble wrap stuff for the lids is better than nothing, DO it. chillers - you WILL need one Chillers have a separate pump- a maxijet 1000l/hr job from the res to the chiller, and the warer will naturally return from the chiller to the res, , if you can try and get the return to make the water fall back to the res - more DO - you know it makes sense. Pop in your net pot, fill with hydroton and grow big fuck of trees. My first run in the 2 pot system produced 700grams from two (whisper it ) autos Mission accomplished. If I think of anything else I will add it. Mon the water
  3. Thought I would show how to purge air or fill the pump with hydraulic fluid.. Sometimes you can loose pressure and not have any leaks with a new press or when it's moved..The way to fix it is quite easy..My new press came without enough fluid in the pump,so I filled it up and bled it the following way...Most of the press stuff I do will now be in here, lots of info in the sig from old threads... its also good to add ptfe plumbers tape to any thread on the hydraulics even if they look ok.. the hydraulic oil I use for top up is from machinemart The press used, most bleed the same way... The next pic shows the "dipstick" bolt , the bottom of the thread should have oil on it there is no level mark, just so the threads covered..Best to check when the pump is verticle..Undo the big black "dipstick" bolt .. then bellow is a sliver thumb bolt, this is for letting air out the system and also for filling up with fluid...IF no oil on "dipstick" undo the silver thumb bolt and slowly top up fluid..When the "dipstick" bolt has oil on the thread at bottom the level is correct.. The next pic shows bottom of pump , the release valve.. after you have done up dipstick bolt and silver thumb bolt for air up top open the release valve a good half turn...Then undo silver thumb bolt again, give the handle around ten full strokes, when handle verticle with pump screw shut the silver thumb screw first ,then do up release valve.... The press should now have correct level of fluid and no air in system and active and hold pressure ... How handle should be when shut all release and air release bolt... Thats it for now till next time take it easy....
  4. Okay dudes, I'm not sure if this has ever been posted before and I have searched and not seen anything, so here goes. Its been ages since I've posted anything DIY related but this is a really, really cool thing I've learned over the years. This shit is best made in a HUGE bucket with a handheld plaster mixer if you have one. Or for the smaller grow ops, you can just down size everything. What you'll need is Water Storing Crystals ONA Liquid Concentrate Water *Optional Food coloring if your into that kinda thing.. First its handy to know that the water storing Xtal can swell up to 40 times its own size so Its quite hard to over do it. Get a tablespoon of the water xtal in a plastic bowl or whatever you wanna mix it in. Mix a few tablespoons of ONA into a litre of water. Pour half the ONA liquid mix you made over the xtal and then stir. Leave for a few mins to swell - then add some more of the mix. Once to your desired lumpiness put into a container or whatever you want where it will make nice smells If you have some really stinky shit on the g-row, you can always add a stronger ONA Liquid mixture. That's it - Save some cash..
  5. So, after a very poor start on my new grow (link below) I decided to get a little ahead of myself by building a small space for germination and early veg (up to three weeks tops) in a small bedside closet... http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?/topic/383478-skunk-1-applejack/ The aim is simply to get a few seeds germinated and vegged to a point where they can go under HPS without needing any special treatment (e.g. high hanging lighting) that might upset anything growing there. The hope is, I can get back to having more than one plant on the go now that all attempts to germinate my applejack seeds has failed. Its all very basic and its pretty much just begun - lots still to do: vent in will be passive, extraction likely passive too as I'll only be running 30 - 60watt CFL in there, could still get warm I know... we'll see. The box needs to be light sealed everywhere, at present it is as shown in the photographs, a flat white interior space with 30watt CFL and the beginnings of a passive intake i the bottom left. I plan to keep seedlings elevated above that and to add a small tube should things get chilly! OK, its not stealthy! But that's OK, its going to be covered - besides, its not the most obvious growing structure in my place and its going to be placed well away from any eyes. So, all I have done so far is to remove the floor of the drawer, paint everything inside flat white, drill four holes for lighting, add a hook to suspend lights (original ideal was to fit them to hang horizontally - hanging gives me more flexibilty in terms of placement), the beginnings of an intake can be seen in the lower left corner - still to drill out a few more holes and ten drill extraction in the upper right corner - if need be, I'll add a computer fan for extraction, but I am hopeful that a small fan at floor level and convection will move enough air in and out without that - we'll see. Burning a full 30watts, that's right, a full 30watts of CFL! I may up that to 60watts, though given my aim of vegging for 2wks (3 tops) 30 watts might be enough just to get things moving. Any thoughts, anything obvious I have missed! Cheers!!
  6. Simple germenation and early veg box

    From the album Skunk #1 & Applejack

  7. https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/b6t/KSD301-120C-Celsius-Temperature-Control-Switch-Thermostat/B007Q81I7I/ref=pd_day0_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A0VR8QNSX7ZZ7Z2VNK16 I have fitted a switch to turn on the fans (something like the above) when the temp reaches 20C It is an epic fail on my part and was wandering what ANALOG unpowered thermostat (because it is in a greenhouse) I could use instead or is there a way of fitting this I missed?. In the above example I wired the live to either side of the switch leaving neutral running to the fans. It was 13C the other night and the fans were happily whirring away :'-(
  8. diy

    hi guys can someone plz help ive recently wired up a twin variac fan controller, had some major issues at the start but rebuilt it from strach using a multi-meter testing as i go.. now i think ive sussed it but my variacs after time just continue to get hotter and hotter i turned them off when they reached 35C... i think they are wired correctly ive check various threads on here and it seems all good checked it with the multi-meter reads what it should when it should... now i did arc the variacs early one (school boy error very high) could this have damaged them to cause this... ive not earthed the variac themselves ive seen a few people commenting on here but it doesnt appear in any of the steps or photos??? i have netural to a output live e input live c the netural runs straight into the rely then branching off to the atc800+, variacs & neutral out to the fans
  9. Ey grow mates !!! Just land over here from another SPA´s weed forum Currently contest in the 4 contest sweet seeds with a PCgrow and come here to learn and to share about the Project, hope can enjoy it such as Spanish one In a future I will create a post summarizing the construction of the Pcgrow ( when the contest ends at summer aprox. ), from the version 1.0 with led bulbs and its cap up to as it is now after the upgrade, with COB LED and much more complete To open my mouth, my English colleagues ... I´ll leave a couple of images of my own Young Frankestein hahahaha I leave you a current picture of the state of Pc grow with the protagonists of the 4 contest Sweet seeds too * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Details ( yesterday´s photos ) See You !! Cheers From Spain
  10. Day 1 12/12.jpg

    From the album LED Quantum Board Grows

  11. Hey LED fans, Whilst digesting another few hours of reading about about DIY COB builds I struck a little gold on this video that uses your current LED box as a base for building a multi COB unit,why didn't I think about it before..aarrggghhh I did try and see if it had already been posted but couldn't find it so sorry if it's a double post. The videos about upgrading the standard Mars Hydro light that you can get for £20-£30 used but with a bit of research on specs I'm sure most units could be done as long as the driver output matches the COB's can't see much of an issue and the process should be similar. I tried to not post it live but just keeps rolling so feel free to tweak it site masters! I'D LIKE STATE I'M NO ELECTRICIAN SO IF YOU BLOW YOUR LIGHT/SELF UP YOU ONLY HAVE YOURSELF TO BLAME SILLY. right I'm off looking for an old Hydro....
  12. Hey all, nice forum, I work heavily with routing and networks especially BSD, I like DIY especially wood work ... I have no idea what to write hmm A pleasure to meet you all I am sure anyhow, I grow photoperiod's using HPS, I use DWC.
  13. This project is intended for 18L square pots - if using round pots or alternative sizes then be aware this will affect dimensions and /or instructions - do your research first. I have found that fixed, one piece scrog nets spanning your entire grow space or tent can be quite limiting - this thread is therefore my own DIY attempt to improve my set up and to give me a more sturdy and accessible "scrog per pot". For each scrog pot you will need:- 18L square pot - this should have a rim (see photos) and be sturdy. 56cm x 56cm (22x22") mesh - stainless or galvanised steel to prevent rusting. I went for mesh with 5cm (2") square holes with a wire thickness of 2.5mm - very sturdy!! 4 lengths of 4.75mm thick galvanised / stainless steel rods each at 76cm (30") length 4 x rubber bungs with pre-drilled 4mm holes 4 x rubber end caps - black preferred - because you definitly dont wanna have you eye out on these rods! You will also need a drill with a 5mm bit suitable for drilling plastic. Ok, so here is the pot I am using - it's an 18L square pot (which came with my Wilma big 4) Firstly, you want to drill a hole in each corner of the pot, through the rim - make sure it's exactly in the corner as much as you can - repeat for all 4 corners:- Next, flip the pot over.... you now need to drill a hole through each corner on the underside of the pot - the hole should be drilled diagonally and emerge at the bottom side in the corner - repeat for each corner and see the picture for what I mean:- Now, take one of your 30 inch rods and insert it through one of the holes you just made..... it should go through the underside first and out the side of the pot as you drilled it:- Feed the rod all the way up and through the hole you made in the top rim - like so:- You want to ensure you pull it all the way through so it is flush or better still, slightly recessed with the bottom of your pot - as pictured - this will ensure any sharp edges wont snag up your tent or floor covering:- Now, repeat the above steps for each corner and you should end up with a pot with 4 long rods very firmly attached like so:- Right, thats the end of part one.... stay tuned for part two (when some bits arrive from flea bay in a few days)! Thanks for tuning in!
  14. Hope you're all in sparkling form I obviously have too much time on my hands and managed to get this contraption up and running all watertight. It started as a an idea from the autopot, then I saw those tropf blumat things and although similar principal not quite the same since auto and TBM's are gravity fed. The idea is - even although I'm in with her every night, I like the idea of me not having to decide when she's thirsty and if I were to go away for a few days then this should let me do that without worrying. Now that I've got it set up - there's a few fine tuning adjustments I'm pondering but it'll be a wee while before Mrs Bubba is big enough to fill her new shoes which means I can hopefully have it ready in time. One thing that had worried me a bit was what about the "dry" period? At present what I have is 5 gallon homebrew bucket, 15 litre round pot filled with a soil mix (approx 30 ish percent perlite/vermeculite) this rests on the lid of the homebrew bucket giving approximately half for the nutrient reservoir, 1 Fluval 1 internal fish tank filter in bottom of bucket running on a timer with the lights 1 gromit 1 elbow 1 inverted aquarium vaccum which is acting life level indicator/filling & Draining hole I just got a load of Hesi soil nutrients as I thought it best to start in dirt, keeping with the KISS moto but it doesn't look a kick in the hee haws off one of those plant-it Gemini things, however I'm broker than broke and can't afford a new set of nutes or pH pens or EC truncheons for the forseeable. Has anyone got anything similar on the go and got any advice/pointers to look out for? As it stands I'm just thinking of trying to use it like an autopot with dirt? I've not yet sussed how to upload photos but every day's a school day so hopefully not long to follow. Take care y'all
  15. I've been looking in to water chillers and have come to the conclusion there to expensive! so figured I'd make my own (how hard can it be) im stuck on one thing right now, i need a plastic water block!. As i understand it when the ph is below 7 metal from the water block will get 'leached' into the water. anyone know much about that? all i can find are aluminium or copper water blocks :/ would copper be ok?
  16. From the album Winter project

    its easy to do and the " lights on " temp in my tent with 1000w hps is stable at 73 degres
  17. DIY Parabolic reflector

    From the album Double white 12lt coco hempy scrog potty

    Made from bits from the poundshop
  18. DIY Parabolic reflector

    From the album Double white 12lt coco hempy scrog potty

    Made from bits from the poundshop
  19. High again, I'm soon going to be setting up my growdrobe and thought I'd get some insight on making my fan as quiet as possible, I've seen other threads using similar methods so hopefully it will all work out! I've ordered my fans from Greens - so hopefully the box the fans are supplied in will be ideal size for the d.i.y silencing.. I plan to put the fan in a box.. 2 side of the box will have holes for attaching my ducting to be connected to the fans inside the box / all round the fan I plan to pack with acoustic foam (lots of offcuts not expanding foam) Seal up the box and hope it works! I'll repeat the process for both my intake/exhaust fans depending how noisy they are once they arrive etc. also would the boxes on the floor be okay or should I attempt to hang them too? I'll update my post once trying out my idea but any tips on reducing noise are welcomed!
  20. Hi guys, i just wanted to introduce myself and my ongoing project. I know a lot of people will want to follow my progress with this and i’m pretty sure i’ll need some contributors before the end of this project. I’ve read a few other threads here and there but not seen any that have actually gone somewhere and produced any results although some are ongoing and look rather promising. So i’m going to take the time to let you all know what I’m up to and what i want to achieve so that anyone else who is interested can join in and reap the benefits. This project was born out of a frustrating lack of control systems that operate on a day and night basis as well as controlling heaters and extraction fans. I’m not even aware of a commercially produced system that performs this job under £1000. I know how important it is to have a controlled night time drop in temperatures so why doesn't anyone cater for this? I plan to use a raspberry pi as my main controller. The basic requirements i’m looking to achieve with my project are; Lighting control Separate night and day temperature settings Separate night and day humidity settings Must have full and independent and automatic control over extraction, heaters and humidity foggers All data must be fully logged Full web interface for controls and monitors LCD screen readouts and basic settings control on the unit itself At the minute i’m in the ‘proof of concept stage’. I’m buying components bit by bit and proving to myself that what i have in my head will transfer to practice. For example how do you get a raspberry pi to record a temperature? Or how do i measure the moisture level of the soil? These are the questions that need answers before even thinking about putting the whole thing together. Then when each of these all work i can start to buy everything i need to build the system and start on the main code. The next few posts will explain the steps I've been through already.
  21. Hi Guys, I just wanted to show you a micro box with full temperature control i built for a friend of mine. You can set night and day temperatures. It has a heater matt in the bottom, a carbon filter and has been through a full grow already and it worked great! The carbon filter works perfectly. I’ve fitted a rather big LED light for the size of the box. There are some pictures below of the build along with a circuit diagram for the electronics if anyone wants to build one. Not got any pictures yet of it in use from him yet but i’ll get them up asap. Circuit Diagram: Pictures:
  22. I just seen this today and though it might help cfl growers. http://youtu.be/NFzIP_TN75A?t=1m36s