Howdy!! Intro Hey guys, I have been meaning to sign up and share my RDWC build on here for a while but have never got round to it. Basically I have been following the RDWC grow space for a while now and wanted to build one for myself. I haven't grown for ages now and wanted to get involved in a nice community to share and learn from others doing the same. I chose this forum as Ive noticed there are a lot of RDWC experts around here who may have experienced some of the challenges that I'm having/going to have. Design I wanted to design the system around my space which is a 3m x 1.5m grow tent.. which spills over into my built in wardrobe for the control reservoir and pump. I decided to go with a venturi setup because i want a 1 pump does all approach and didn't want noisy air-pumps and extra pipework. I took inspiration from the Alien V-System RDWC....wanting to build something similar for a lot cheaper. Let me know your thoughts and pitfalls of the design: Photos 35L Tubs with 90mm uniseal return line: I decided on uniseals as I couldn't find bulkheads big enough. I have read that RDWC lines get blocked by roots so wanted to go as big as possible. Also, I raised all of the tubs onto plinths. this allowed me to install all the returns at the bottom to get maximum drain. The plinth also adds a air gap between the tub and the ground for better temperature control of the nutrient solution. Pump Choice and Test As i was basing my design roughly on the Alien V system, i took a look at what pump they used and it was basically a 370W swimming pool pump. The Alien V System uses 65L tubs , mine are pretty much half sized , so I did a few calcs based on the specifications of the Alien 8 pot v system and the volume of my system. I ended up getting a 250W pool pump for around £50... The pump was meant to be 250W out the wall...which is heaps.. but when i plugged it in, it ran at more like 400W out the wall.. this was starting feel v. expensive on running costs so I did a little research and decided to run the pump through a variac controller to reduce the voltage (torque not speed) of the pump as there is no head in the system. I ramped the voltage down until the pump started to stall and then nipped it up a touch from there and now my pump runs at around 200W at the same flow rate! ...Also it is very loud... so I had to build a sound insulated box around it (see next photo) System Plumbing So I wanted the system to be as pipe free as possible to allow for maximum mobility in my tent. I came up with the idea of running the pump outlet in a kind of ring main/manifold around the perimeter of the grow tent so it wont affect the precious tent real estate which i will need for plant maintenance ect. later down the road. The pump sucks the water out of the service reservoir and round the ring main up through venturi valves into the side of each of the tubs. this looked like the cleanest way to get the plumbing done with as few joints as possible. The return manifolds follow the two lines of 4 tubs and join together before returning to the service res (bottom left out of picture). I added a drain valve at the lowest point of the system to gravity drain it out, also added another drain valve (red) to empty the pump manifold lines as they have to go up and over the return line in the tent. Notice the pump soundproofing.... boy it works! It has a opening at the back for the motor fan so it doesn't overheat! This is how the plumbing leaves the tent. Notice how the pump manifold hugs the outside of the tent and doesn't really take up any space. I installed rubber connectors every two tubs and loads of barrel unions for the PVC pipe so i could construct and glue the whole system in my garage and disassemble it easily enough to carry in and reassemble in the tent. This would not have been possible to build in situ, which is why i had to take care and thought into how it could all come apart again after being glued. Notice in the bottom left tub the 'impeller like' 3d print which was designed to A: help create a votex in the tub from the return suction and B: act as a lid over the return line to prevent clogging. The lid hasn't been glued onto the impeller yet in this photo as it was printed in two parts. This is just outside the tent where the pump and service res live.. The black line is the auto top up/drain line which connects to a top-off tank and drain (located outside of the property). The top off tank was repurposed from a wheely bin. I hadn't yet installed the float valve in this photo which would create the auto top off for the RDWC system. The venturi valves came with pre-installed spring check (one way) valves to prevent back flow when the pump isnt running. I found that these were very stiff and i was concerned that the flow of the water divided by the 8 tubs would create enough negative pressure to open the spring valves enough to aerate the tubs...It turned out that I was right and the air flow was heavily reduced by the valves. The below photo shows the difference between the spring valve removed (two bottom tubs) and spring valve in (two top tubs). LOOK at the agitation on the bottom tanks.. it almost looks as if it would be a bit too much for the roots to handle??? As i removed the spring valves for the Venturis, I had to make sure that the airline was higher than the max fill level. So I installed little soldier pipes to stand tall with their sticks to maintain erection . Also, I insulated the tubs for nute solution temperature control. To start the babies off, I teed off of the pump manifold line with a valve to a DIY top feed dripper system which i made by capping the ends of the irrigation lines and put pin pricks through around the net pots. With the valve, I could adjust the flow from little streams to slow drips... As well as the drippers, I added another valve off to the water chiller which is off outside the tent. All of this is run off the one big-ass pump. These are my first babies of the system and this photo was taken a over a week ago now. I picked this chiller up second hand...fuck they're expensive.. I was looking into making my own as they are so dear.... hopefully will be able to sell it for what I got it for Let me know what you guys think.

Hello, my fellow herb enthusiasts, I have decided to put up a short build guide for people considering RDWC. Now I have pictured 2 of my previous system builds, but unfortunately, the pigs stole them so I'm a bit limited in showing actual photos of various parts of the build. I have built quite a few of these over the years, each one has been a learning process, and not without disaster along the way, as u do. The systems shown will fit in a 2.4 by 1.2 tent (the 4 pot one) or a 1.2 tent (the 2 pot one) These are NOT undercurrent systems, they are simple recirculating systems, utilising 22mm spray bars for the delivery and 40mm returns to the res. I have located the res outside of the tent in both systems, because this helps keep the temperature of the nutrients cooler, and reduces the work for the chiller (i'll come to that later) So the system works by the process of pumping nutrient around the system, through the spray bars. This nutrient solution is highly oxygenated, with high levels of dissolved oxygen produced by the falling water disturbing the surface tension (which creates DO(dissolved oxygen). Now I'm not saying that this system is perfect or cant be improved upon, because nothing is perfect is it, its all a compromise in some way or other, before you all start slagging it off and telling me how I should have done this or that or whatever. I'm not really interested, ok? good.......... then we shall proceed Lets start with a list of stuff you will need to complete this build (2 pot system) The pictures are meant as a guide only as some of the stuff I describe is what I would do differently if I was to do it again 3No. really useful boxes (2 for the plants , one for the res) either 64 or 84 litre jobs (the more nutrient you have the more stable the EC and Ph will remain). this is why I use big boxes A hole cutter for 22mm and 40mm pipework. A number of 40 mm tank connectors (6 in this case), plus 40mm pipework, bends and tees to suit. I use solvent weld fittings, which do not leak if done properly, unlike the push fit ones. The solvent weld fittings are also cheaper woop woop. the down side is that if you ever want to move the system or dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw lol. A number of 22mm pipework fittings including bends, tees and pipework. I am not stating how many of each you use because it will depend on how you lay it out. I'm sure you are capable of working this part out for yourselves A water pump _ I would recommend a 4000l/hr one for this size system, the 4 pot system I used a 6000l/hr one, but should have gone bigger. A reducer from the water pump outlet to the 22mm spray bar. These can be bought off ebay as silicone reducers , just pump in the sizes, e.g 22mm to 26mmm or whatever it is. Stainless hose clamps to suit this reducer, both ends. various drill bits, a drill, A chiller- will depend on the total capacity of your system, for a 2 pot system I reckon you would be ok with a 150l chiller, I used a 300l one on the 4 pot system Maxijet 1000l/hr pump and hose to suit the chiller. Right, now to the construction part. we will start with the returns. these are 40mm, which are a decent compromise, you can go bigger (but they are expensive) or smaller (more likely to block with roots etc) So take your really useful boxes and lay them in the tent where you want them to go, this is how I did it As you can see the totes are side by side with the return pipes at the front and back of each box. Its always a good idea to set things out to make sure there is enough room for like lids to fit on (ahem), and all the pipework to fit etc. Now once you know where its all going measure out your pipes, notiing where each one goes. I lay them out on the floor the way they will go in the tent, makes life a little easier. The return pipes are attached to the box via the 40mm tank connector, which is solvent welded to the pipe When you drill the hole for the tank connector/ bulkhead, you want to try and get it very close to the bottom of the box,, BUT make sure you still have room to screw on the nut. When you get the tank connectors you will see a rubber washer type thing - this goes to the outside of the box ok? A word on solvent cement- you can get high as fuck off it so use in a well ventilated area (that's the health and safety pish out the way) Also, when using solvent cement, this is what I do to prevent bailing water out of the tent/ leaks . Saw cut the end of the pipe, then sand off the rough end where all the scrappy bits are, and a small chamfer on the end of the pipe. (Use 100 grit sandpaper or above) Make sure nothing is sticking out from the pipe, like rough edges etc Put the solvent cement on the end of the pipe, AND on the inside of the fitting it is getting connected to. Now stick em together, you don't get long. When I join them together I kinda push the pipe in and give it a 1/4 turn at the same time. wipe off the excess glue (don't put it back in the glue pot) Leave this for 15 minutes and it will be solid. So glue all the returns together, putting it in the box, measuring trimming etc as you go, to be sure it will all FIT properly. No point glueing it all together then finding out your 10mm out on a measurement has fucked half of it up is there. The returns are at opposite sides of the really useful box to equalise the return flow, so that the roots stay in the centre of the box. If both returns were at the same side of the box, the roots WILL migrate there and clog the returns. In the picture above you will see just below the spray bar Tee, the return pipes go to a tee fitting and then back to the res. If I was to do it again I would have 2 returns to the res, just in case the one was to block with root (unlikely tho it may be). The picture above also shows the spray bars, the 22mm pipe inside the box which delivers the nutrients to the tote. Drill the holes for these as high up the sides of the box as possible, you want as much fall from the water as possible. This one is drilled just below the top lip. These are done in a similar fashion to the returns, but it is easier to drill the holes for the nutrient to spray from before you glue the lot together. I use a small drill bit for the holes, and for this system, if I remember I had something like 4 holes on each long side and 2 on the short sides. I had these holes drilled in such a way to spray the water around the base of the net pot, about an inch or 2 away from the actual pot itself, but its not really critical where the holes go, as long as the water can splash on the surface, creating DO. The spray bars go to a TEE which goes to a single pipe from the water pump. A word of advice - the pump outlet has a reducer attached, and then it goes to the 22mm pipe. You will see that this pipe goes through the side of the res. there is a reason for this, which is - if somehow the pipe detaches from the reducer, it will not go flying out of the way allowing the fountain from the res to flood the room, as the side hole will keep the pipe in place. See pic below. Again if I was doing this again I would have the pump closer to the tent side of the box. this pic also shows the reserviour, outside the tent. You can see the single return at the bottom of the box. The red thing on top of the pump is the reducer Like a said, id do a double return next time, but you get the idea. If you look at the pic above, then this one, its like, inside the tent- outside the tent Here is my 4 pot system in action with spraybars (the spray bars are a different design, but the principle is the same). On the subject of dissolved oxygen, you can also add an airstone or 2 to this system. You don't really NEED to, but they help by creating yet more oxygen to the rootzone, like I did in the above system. so that's the spray bars and returns done, you are nearly there. For the net pots you need to make some holes in the lids. I use 200mm net pots, and to make the hole I devised a cunning plan, baldrick would be proud of. here is how its done. Mark the centre of the box lid, drill very small pilot hole, then get a piece of timber, and put a drywall screw through one end, so the tip of the screw ids protruding by about 3-5mm. then measure out 95mm and put another screw through the same amount. Put one screw in the pilot hole you drilled, and then turn the wood through 360 degrees scoring a perfect circle into the plastic. Then you just keep on scoring round and round till you eventually go through the lid , or it gets so thin you can cut it with a Stanley. Also when this is done insulate the boxes if possible, ive used Kingspan in the top pics, or even the silver reflective bubble wrap stuff for the lids is better than nothing, DO it. chillers - you WILL need one Chillers have a separate pump- a maxijet 1000l/hr job from the res to the chiller, and the warer will naturally return from the chiller to the res, , if you can try and get the return to make the water fall back to the res - more DO - you know it makes sense. Pop in your net pot, fill with hydroton and grow big fuck of trees. My first run in the 2 pot system produced 700grams from two (whisper it ) autos Mission accomplished. If I think of anything else I will add it. Mon the water

Hi DIYers, what happens if I add another strip to the driver? Explode or drop in voltage? Also, is it really bad to mix Scope 1 strips with Scope 2 strips? Cheers

Hi I would like to know if anyone has made a metal cabinet build? I think they'd be great for plain sight stealth and I know they're very lockable, just wondering if they're a bitch to build or dangerous to operate? (Electrical earthing etc). Cheers!

Evening all, After trying out all the tips in my previous thread about low humidity it’s still not quite where I’d like it. So.. been watching videos on YouTube about diy humidifiers/foggers. Look just the job, plus easier to fill up and won’t have to struggle around it when watering anymore! Anyone on here made one? Found myself a 5 jet fogger with float, just struggling on finding a suitable fan. The videos are American and both give a link to a us hydro shop, 1 they’re expensive and 2 can’t be arsed with import taxes etc. If anyone’s got a link or what I specifically need to search for it would be much appreciated

Hey guys, I'm currently running a 100w puck led in my cabinet. I want to add some strip LEDs to the set up to even out the light spread and maybe gain some height. Potentially would like to add some UV to the spectrum. Diyleduk used to have strips for sale on their site but can't see any now. Does anyone have a recommendation for some modern strip beds that I can mount on a frame alongside my puck led? Also, is it possible to run them all off the one driver?

Im nearly running out of CalMag - Could I use Canna Mono calcium to take RO water to 300ppm/0.3ec Then add Epsom salts (Mg) at 100ppm to take it to 0.4ec 0.4 is what everyone says to add calmag to RO and take the ec up to And the Ca:Mg ideal 3:1 ratio is achieved Can I get by with homemade calmag in this way, or am I missing something? mysticriver

Afternoon all, Looking to build a Fallponics/UCRDWC system. Finally located some 35L Black Really Useful Boxes (Nightmare trying to get them delivered to non-mainland part of the UK) and now just wondering where people picked up their plumbing parts (And exactly what would be best [pipe guage wise] for the system). Currently using a 50L Wilma with the arses cut out of the pot holders to allow the roots in. The tent is a Budbox Pro 120 and I am using LED for lighting. I'll be using 5x35L Really useful boxes (Just to get setup but should be good for the 1.2m tent for room, allow extras in like humidifier, etc.) - may upgrade to a larger header tank down the road. Have a Hailea 300A winging its way to me for next week (Although I dont think I'll have time to set this up for fresh grow - 4 seedlings already starting to show 2nd leaves so probs give the Wilma 1 last run). Any advice on decent place for plumbing supplies (and again, best bits to use - I am no plumber so foolproof would be great here) would be greatly appreciated. If @badbillybob still about on here and willing to give advice, I'd really appreciate it. Saw some great info on threads and looking to see if anyone has made any improvements/advancements through trial and error. Thanks in advance all!

Diy led lights (F series strips) T his is a diy thread, for the diy guys, to diy a diy led grow light..Its the cheapest way to get a decent led light. Im not going to get too deep here. This is a basic guide with parts list with product codes to google, rather than a how to build it.. “what wattage do I need for my space” Strips. The Samsung f series strip. This features 144 Lm561C S6 bin leds. Driving them at the currents listed in the parts lists will achieve 2.2-2.35 ish µMol/j at system level. Warning! Don’t be fooled by the cheaper boards/strips.Genuine strips have the Samsung logo and are fully CE compliant. Heres the parts numbers for the strips.Google will give you the supplier. 3000K SI-B8V521560WW 3500K SI-B8U521560WW 4000K SI-B8T521560WW 3000k and 3500k will do veg and flower for weed, just buy whatever’s in stock. 4000k might be useful for mums or lettuce, micro greens etc Strips cost £28 each or you can get a discount on ten+ (including vat which they will add at the checkout) Drivers are easy to find, again just google the part number in the lists. TME is the best place to get them. Ill put rough prices so you know whats the right price to pay. heatsinks you want U channel aluminium. 1 3/4” wide 1” high and 590mm long. This is a very common size and easy to get. Framework you want 1/2” by 1” Unequal aluminium angle(Or whatever you can get. staiir nosing work great). For the length you need it a little smaller than your tent. So 60cm tent get 40cm angle. 1.2m tent get 1m angle. Just get it as big as possible.If your tent is 1.2m or bigger build it in two lights. Max spread is the game here. More points/angles of light over the area = “penetration”. The metal work you can buy cut to order online, or a local shop will do you it cheaper. Heat sinks cost around £4-5 each and framework is a couple quid. All the wiring/wagos/bolts ect be found easy on shitbay/scamazon. Or any local electrics shop. Make sure you get solid core wire. And your power cable is a 10amp one. Are you still here? Heres a chart, I think it makes sense Heres a list just in-case it doesn't. Prices are the max you want to pay really, you should get it a bit less if you get the metal cheap. . 150w. Total cost - 130ish l 2x F series strips. l 1x HLG-120H-48A driver (£40 max) l 2x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 2m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 3 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 210w. Total cost - 170ish l 3x F series strips. l 1x HLG-185H-48A driver (£45 max) l 3x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 3m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 265w. Total cost 220ish l 4x F series strips. l 1x HLG-240H-48A driver (£55 max) l 4x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 4m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 5 way wago connector. l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 350w. Total cost 280 ish l 5x F series strips. l 1x HLG-320H-48A driver (£80 max) l 5x heatsinks l 2x unequal angle. l 5m 18awg or 20awg solid core wire. l 2x 6 way terminal block l Old kettle lead for the plug. l 3 core cable connector. l 20mm thermal tape roll. l Bolts/nuts/rivets (whatever you want to use) 420w. Total cost 340 ish l 210w kit parts x2. 530w Total cost 440 ish l 265w kits parts x2. 700w Total cost 520 ish l 350w kit parts x2. The build its self is self explanatory really. Mount the strips last so you don’t damage them. Get the tape lined up right before sticking it as it WILL NOT come off once on. Wiring is the only tricky bit. Its a parallel wired system. All negatives from the strips go the the negative on the driver and all positives from the strips go to the positive on the driver. Here a quick paint wiring diagram, to show how to do it. I don’t mind helping out, if you have a question, just post it on the thread. It is a low voltage system (47V) but still be careful, take time stripping wires right, cable tie them to the frame. If you can see any exposed core you have fucked it, try again. DISCLAIMER- key accepts no responsibility for damage caused to persons, or property. This is not electrical advise, just a parts guide. Don’t pm me asking where to get stuff , post questions in this thread. PMs will be ignored. @mods Any issues with this please let me know.

Hi. I see Samsung now produce a horticultural range of LED strips called L2. Anyone tried them yet? They use the white LED's around the (4990K ~ 5820K) range, and have added red diodes. Pretty sure they use the same drivers as the older strips (3000k etc) £31 each for the 58cm strips. Here's them in action on a custom U.S. made LED rig: Which retails for around $900 US, but could be made for around £400 from Digikey and some DIY. 8 strips is over kill but those numbers are pretty amazing. Looks cool, just wondered if they were as good as they claim to be. E2A: Parts number at Digikey is: ‎SL-B8R5C9H2AWW‎

Hope everyone had a great 420 So I've decided to make the most of my drying tent and turn it into a veg room so I can get a continuous grow going. In my flower room i run a 8 35l pot alien rdwc sysyem. I've just been out to b and q and my local grow shop and picked up all the bits I need to build a 10 site rdwc system for about 160 quid compared to 700 for an equivalent alien system. Will be getting it put together tonight and putting some pics up of the prossess. This is the 1st time I have had a go at making a system and only decided to give it a go late last night so hopefully help out someone not sure on the diy route.

Hi all DIY'ers, I thought you might like a look at a hybrid light I made from 2x @diyleduk products. First purchase was a 'Scope 275' back in the day, later upgraded just the lighting strips to Scope V2, which offer more deep reds than the original Scope. Then came a High Light 240 lighting board, which I bought after reading the following blurb: "The extremely popular highlight board kit - for true connoisseur growers - is back and better than ever! With new features and an improved spectrum; these are amongst the most advanced LED grow lights on the market.The new "High Light 420" Horticultural LED pcb takes growing to the next level. With a broader UV range, increased Far Red, splash-resistant coating, and a waterproof plug-and-play cable system. With 20% better efficiency than the original High Light boards - over 3 umol/j at low current - these Australian-made grow lights combine top-bin Nichia LEDs with an array of customised highly efficient LED Teknik diodes (420 total), that cover the entire spectral range from UV to Far Red (390nm-780nm) with no supplementary lighting required. A collaboration between Grow Lights Australia and LED Teknik, the High Light 420 board is the most efficient “true” full spectrum, single-channel LED grow light on the market. These new lights have 5% UV and near-UV (390-420nm) and 10% Far Red (700-780nm) for faster growth and essential oil production." Most of which I didn't understand except the bit that says "faster growth and essential oil production", and I was sold. The High Light 240 alone is possibly overkill for an 80x80cm tent but I knew they'd be great together. I bolted a frame together using 40mm aluminium u-channel for the Scope V2 strips, wrapped the frame around the High Light pcb, wired the Scope strips back up in parallel and hung the beast up for my next SCROG. I even sprayed the frame in black paint to make it look nice. Both the Vo ADJ & Io ADJ on the original Scope driver now at lowest setting, which I believe to be 50% - The dimmer on the High Light is set to around 1/4 turn off the lowest setting. In action, both on: Using the Scope V2's to replicate sunrise and sunset, they're on alone for 2 hours before the High Light kicks in, same in reverse, the Scope's fly solo for the last 2 hours. Full sun Temps and RH% sorted My Sassberry (Purple Haze x GG3) looking happy with all that light. Another week and there's no space in there, especially once the grid is installed for an even canopy. So that's it, both lights really compliment each other. With 2x drivers on separate timers, I can play with both to respond to the plants needs. Both on 100% would create a lot of heat and probably burn the plants, but reducing both to half voltage, using only the Scope for the first and last 2hrs, I should keep running costs and heat down.

Hi guys I'm starting to build my new grow room soon and just looking for some ideas. I'm boarding out half a 20ft container as I'm not keen on my tent and want to use the space a bit better. The plan is to put 4 x 600w hps lights in there with 12 plants. I'm using a alien rdwc system so plan on having 3 rows of 4 plants with room to walk between. Does this seem realistic for the space 10ft x 8ft All equipment will be outside of the room leaving space for the important stuff inside. Anyone done anything similar and have any tips. Thanks in advance

Hi So I have done 3 grows now in my 1.2x1.2x2.0 tebt all gone well except the last due to cold conditions So now here the new plan O want to split my garage in half And then build seprate rooms for all my needs I will be having a basic prep and bonsia mother room A hallway through the garage with a bit of space for storage and hydro tanks My biggest question is this Cost wise keeps me strictly at CLS studwork 38x63mm My biggest question is this I am planning on using 100mm knauf insulation and any hardboard/MDF for the floor base to all rooms What insulation shall I use in the walls would 200m knauf be effeiciy in notice reduction ? Also I have very think hard board at my abudunace but reducing noise is a must so would plaster board be better Insulation and boarding for walls and ceiling in the main flower room is my neccesicty so all other rooms will be same Flowering and mother rooms will have the silver insulation added throught after main walls are built After a good kip tonight I will update with photos of the up coming project and update with questions I would love help with

Hi all, First time grower and wanted to prick your brains! So I'll tell you my plans and if you can point in the right direction that would be great. So my set up is going to be in my concrete garage. It's going to be a diy set up made from a wooden frame and sheets of mdf. I was thinking of lining it with mylar. Size - height 1.7m, width 1.8m, depth 1.3m Lighting - From what I've read, the amount you yeild depends on what wattage lights you have. I read its 1 gram per watt. But there are other factors I believe. I was hoping to grow 6 beasty plants (scrog) under 2 600w hps lights. So if I've got 1200 watts (assuming the space is sufficient) over 6 plants that would be 200 grams per plant. 200 grams is 7 oz. I imagine this would be very optimistic so could I guess a conservative 5 oz per plant? I was thinking 6x 15Ltre pots. Is 1200 watts over 6 plants in a box that size ok? I'm also thinking of using coco? Not soil. And I'm not thinking if growing autos. Or are there too many benefits of autos to ignore. It's purely personal use so time is no issue. I'd rather wait and have a long veg time to increase yeild. As it's my first time I like the idea of a scrog grow as I dont fancy doing anything with too much room for error. What seeds do you reccomend? I'm up for trying anything. Would a carbon filter, around £100 be sufficient to get rid if the smell completely? This is my current shopping list 1x box (L=1.8m W1.3m H=1.7) Carbon filter/fan/ducting (4 inch) (£100) 2x clip fans (£20 each) 2x 600watt HPS lights (£70 each) Thero/humidity stat. 6x 15 litre pots 2x bags 50 litre Coco Do I need anything else. How long would you recommend for veg time? With the scrogg net, can you grow plants bigger and place the net higher up depending on how big they grow or is there a set height to grow before spreading the plant over the net? Thank I'm advance and sorry for.all the questions

Looking on a single variac setup to control my exhaust tornado box fan wouldnt mind been abit more automated to go slow and faster when need to So what would i need to buy thermostat and some sort of relay Then the wiring what goes where? Should i wire the intake in so slows down with outtake thanks

Hi, I'd appreciate some help, please. I have an Oxypot v4 (a huge tub and lid with 4 plant sites) and I'm thinking of connecting another one to each other. The tubs have steeply sloping sides and I'm concerned about leaks from a tank connector. I'm planning on using 22mm push fit plumbing with a straight pipe link of 20cm (shorter pipe=less bendy which might cause a problem?). Any thoughts, please? Thanks.

Luminus cxm22 gen4 cob kits diy grow light led grow light uk cob uk led uk420 quantum board. After nearly a year waiting, the Lmuinus gen4 cobs are now available. Gen3 was 2.3 umol/j, Gen4 has a 7% increase in efficiency and now on par with the Samsung midpower leds. The main benefits of cob lighting is the 90cri spectrum and the adaptability/upgradability of the system. For the DIY guys we have the bare cobs and DIY light engines. I recommend buying the light engines and your own driver, you can save a chunk off our kit prices doing so, but it does require a bit of knowledge. Bare cobs for upgrading. = £15.99 Preassembled Light engines for DIY projects. = £44.99 All DIY Kits are prices at £1 per watt and feature passive pin heatsinks, white aluminium framework and remote mounted meanwell drivers with dimming knobs. They are made to fit the specified area. But of course, we can adjust them to suit any area, create custom units, increase efficiency and even add other spectrum's. 160w DIY kit = £159.99. Ideal for a 60cm x 60cm area 250w DIY kit = £249.99 Ideal for a 80cm x 80cm area 320w DIY kit = £319.99 Ideal for a 90cm x 90cm or push to a 1m x 1m 500w DIY kit = £499.99 Ideal for a 1.2m x 1.2m area 750w DIY kit = £749.99 Ideal for a 1.5m x 1.5m area Pictures are PAR data will be posted when i get the time. Heres a few pics to show the layout of the systems. 75w per light engine. Any questions about the CXM kits post it here please. Thanks to all whos already ordered one. Enjoy your weekend Adam.

Hey guys, i've been eyeing this up for a couple of weeks now and can't seem to figure out what im looking at. So I have two closets side by side. One has the immersion heater and the other is empty and houses my grow tent. I currently have an extension lead plugged in to the wall across the corridor from the closet, trailing along the floor and then in to my grow tent. Not Ideal as i keep tripping on it and its not very stealthy. I want to figure out a way of wiring the extension lead inside of the closet utilising the electric pints that are already in there, which appear to be an old house alarm (de-activated) and the immersion controller. Im not very electric-savy so I thought i should ask in here before I blow something up. I've got my grow tent set up in the small empty closet next to the immersion closet. The two closets are side by side. In the immersion closet theres the immersion heater tank, some shelves and the control switch for it on the wall with some grounding wires attached to a copper pipe and some other green (grounding wires also?) wire going through the wall in to my grow closet. Pic below: The two white wires coming out the bottom of the box go down to the water heater and are connected straight in to its heating elements. Its the green and yellow wires that go through the wall that have my attention as something to tap in to for an extension plug outlet. This is the old house alarm panel on the opposite side that wall and where that green wire leads to: Having a hard time figuring out whats what in here and how i would even go about wiring an extension cord on to any of this....Anyone have any ideas? Im completely stumped here!

I'm planning 3mx3m space w/ 6x 600's to use end of flower. Air extraction 1080-1350m3/hr (depending on which fan I get) intake 800m3/hr. Inside target climate: 25-30°c RH 65-80% Avg outside climate: -2-10°c RH 60-90% Never used inline, kept running into low humidity this time want inline+humidifier. I played w/ online humidifier size calculator it said I need around 14-20kg/hr=14-20l/hr to keep up with extraction. Long story short seems like this is industrial size and way out my budget so instead wondering anyone knows how to make a humidifier maybe w/ pond foggers/mist makers+centi fan? I'm all ears to any advice, thank you in advance:)

Hi all @UK420 So, this is the first part of a three part post I will share, it’s ongoing. Im done with the tents. Not much flexibility for me with them, I got 4 in one room. Done with them all now. This is a flower room build to hold between 16 and 21 plants hopefully, lighting set up will be 2 x 600 watt dimmable HPS and 2 x 1000 cheap led lights. I’m a soil and pots guy. Measures about 2m w, 1.5 m l, 1.9 m h The first part (Basic build up) is 90% complete 2nd part will be inside the room, any diy gadgets, ideas, lighting and air circulation. 3rd part will be final decor, always wanted to pimp out my growroom (inside out) I was thinking logos and posters of my fav strains and seed breeders. Any suggestions, creative critics welcome and appreciated especially from those who have diy set ups.

Hey again, checking in for some help and advice, Working with an under stairs style cupboard, It's roughly 5ft deep by 3ft wide and at the tallest point it's 8ft and smallest point 5ft, I did the Math rounding everything up to give some headroom, the space has a volume of 3.75m3, so would need extraction of 300m3/h A 4 inch rhino fan advertises as being able to provide us a healthy 420m3/h, if true this would more than cover my space, right? Thanks all.