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Found 18 results

  1. Hi folks, I'm planning a winter grow and would like to try using a closed-loop system using a dehumidifier, temperature control and Co2. As this is purely experimental for me, I'll be trying it out with just one plant in a small area. I'm looking for an effective means of producing enough Co2 to work in an unventilated area. I can't really fork out for an expensive system at this point and definitely can't have any kind of propane burner etc for safety reasons. I'd rather not burn my house down. In the future I'd like to try this but only in an outbuilding of some kind. So far I've discovered: Exhale bags Airbomz Co2 dispenser with canisters Pro Co2 buckets Making your own with sugar, bicarbonate of soda and yeast. I'm reading a lot of reviews where growers complain about these methods not really being effective enough and I'd like to achieve at least 1000 ppm if possible. Any thoughts?
  2. Hi all, Does anyone have any guidance on setting up extraction for rooms with co2? One of the things I'm looking at with my new 1.5x3m setup, is running un-filtered extraction through the cool hoods so I can have a lower extraction flow rate of my environment. I currently have a 5" 380m3/hr fan which has done well to keep up with the temps of my 1000w HPS. This runs through a 6" carbon filter and 6" ducting. I've built a foam and wooden box around it and surprisingly been able to reduced the noise of it from 63dB to 54dB while at 100% and from 54dB to 38dB while at 50% power. I'm looking to add another light, so I was thinking to change my cooling fan to an 8" 700 m3/hr and use the 5" for environment only. This would allow for a sealed yet small vacuum situation for co2. But if times get hot, I can have them both pulling air and can turn the co2 off.
  3. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with using a smart CO2 bag? Im using one but there seems to be a strong ammonia smell in my tent all of a sudden. I feel like it burnt the inside of my nose a bit. Just wanted to know if this is normal or whether it will damage the plant and I should get rid of it.
  4. I didnt bother with co2 in my first setup but I'd like to introduce it in my second setup. Its only a small 4 plant budget setup so I don't want to spend a couple of hundred on a co2 tank and regulator and the bags have mixed reviews. I came across the co2 tablets that are primerily used for aquariums. Could these be used in a foliar spray or even in dissolved into water which I will use in a small humidifier which I would be using anyway? Just wondered if anyone had used them in any capacity to any success? I suppose the main issue is calculating the right levels. Any advice welcome, cheers
  5. Just seen an advert for these (CO2 bags). Sort of Organic material that releases a useful wee dose of CO2, last around 3 months, so would seem perfect for use over a flowering period? Anyone got any experience of these, or info as to their usefulness?
  6. Hi guys not sure if am posting in the right place of not could you please direct me. Lets start I've been growing around 7 years, but was have never used co2 so this time round I thought I'd give it a go. So ive bought a ecotecnics co2 controller with sensor and regulator, had a few problems setting up at first but I've over came that but now have the problem with my carbon turning off when In night mode. So my controller is based in my room to sense when lights are on or off, but the Carbon is still turning when lights are out so I can only assume that the co2 is being deployed whist lights are out. So yeh the big question is does anybody now how I can over come this problem. Greenmonster17
  7. Good evening wise old people! So I have been hearing through various channels that Co2 improves both quality and yield and through experience rather than boastful bullshit. I know you can get C02 bags/extinguishers/homemade and wanted to know more. The search portal isn't helping saying there aren't any posts so does anyone have scathing/raving reviews of the use of the bags?? Hypothetically speaking, would a Co2 source replace the intake or is it used to enhance your environment as an addition to the intake?? I'm intrigued to know of anyone's experience before introducing Co2 and after and the benefits or not. I know its not for everyone and that people have grown quality bud without the need but nevertheless I'm interested in any views. Many thanks Peeps, Keep up the good work
  8. As far as I read, CO2 bags are a less-kown non-hazardous method of supplying CO2 to plants. Apparently the bags consist of a type of fungus called mycelium in a nutrient ambient. When the fugnus grows, it generates CO2 until it exhaust all the nutrients. Sounds pertty simple to make. so I am wondering why this method is not used more frequently by micro-growers? On the other hand, the comercial CO2 bags like this one are rediculusly expensive on ebay. What I need to know to make such bag is where to get mycelium and what is the nutrient to put in the bag? If I know that I just put them together in a bag. Appreciate your hints.
  9. Hi There, Been studying how to do an indoor grow for ages saved up a bit of cash and have decided to go for it. So first grow is about to start Bubble Kush Auto seeds arriving tomorrow. So first thing first the room specs. DR60 Secret Jardin tent (small i know but its the only space i got) 1 x P150 PLATINUM LED 2X 2FT Full spectrum fluoros attached vertically in rear corners facing it 1x 4 inch fan and carbon filter with ducting pulling hot air out. 1x six-inch desk top fan for air movement in tent. 1 x exhale co2 bag (i know its not necessary but inquisitiveness got the better of me) Will be growing in soil - start with bio-bizz light with added ecothrive charge , nutrients will be bio grow , bloom etc. Been running tent for 2 days now empty to get the environment right Temps range from 20 - 28 degrees ( high temp is with all lights on and in bloom mode) i think the fluoros are a bit overkill but potentially good for vegging turn them off when switch to bloom. have extraction fan come on for 15 minutes every 15 so could even run it constantly to get temp down. humidity is averaging 56% Any way question with the C02 BAG instead of the exhaust just dumping the warm air out side wasting the co2 was thinking can i recycyle the exhuast back into the inlet thus sealing the room kinda, maybe even put another 4-inch fan on the inlet to move air abit quicker thus cooling it ? DO you think this is the right thing to do to use as much of that c02 as possible ?
  10. Hey everyone. Trying different ways to add Co2 to the chaps. 1, how do I maintain 1500 ppm, and is there a better way than either creating a home brew concoction bubbling away making alcohol or using a burner? Also, the chaps are 4 weeks old, is there a forum to upload pics and receive advice, tips, encouragement etc? Thanks! Smiley face smiley face.
  11. Has anyone ever thought of breathing on your plants to help them grow? as i have been doing this from the start and have been researching to see if it would actually benefit the plant much. In theory it makes sense, plants crave co2 to grow and survive, and we exhale co2. Just interested in finding out if someone else had had the same weird idea as i have found topics about it elsewhere. I have read something like the air we exhale is 5% co2 so i suggest we all get in that tent and breathe! CM *Breathing since 1991*
  12. I am new to LED for growing. However I have read a lot of interesting stuff on it. I'm just wondering how much heat they produce. My idea would be to use it in a small closed cabin without airextraction. This would make it possible to use a CO2 controlled environment. No airextraction would mean heat buildup. But I wonder if this would be a problem with LEDS. Anybody want to share his experiences on this matter? Thanks in advance
  13. Hi folks, I havent seen many threads on this, so I thoughtI I'd better start my own do you do it? how? how much does equipment cost? viability? yeild? pics? taste? winterizing? etc etc? all and any info welcome
  14. Hi all, im not sure if this is the correct category for this post but hey ho, i havent seen any posts on this topic before and in my experience this tip has helped me speed up growth for smaller and young plants by up to twice the speed of normal growth. so here it it: using dry ice in a bowl of water in a propagator or in the grow area with the air circulation turned off for approximately 20 minutes per day, raise the ppm of co2 in the air to 1000-1500 any more than this and it will be overkill. thankyou for taking the time to read this post, any input will be much appreciated
  15. Hi all, just wondering in a sealed area how many times per minute should the grow room's air be scrubbed to eliminate odours? I've seen everything from scrubing the volume of the room once every 5 minutes up to 5 times a minute! If there's no rule of thumb does anyone have first-hand experience and would like to share? Thanks!
  16. Dry-ice (CO2) sift and pressing report. I've been playing about with dry-ice sifting for a year or so, but in small runs. No more - lots of trim, popcorn and entire plants, 5kg of dry ice slabs, a bucket, a 220 micron gauze and a mirror... I ran two grades of product through, the first was dry trim and popcorn bud from a variety of of my stock plants: Northern Lights, Blues, Skunk, etc. The second run was an assortment of Attitude freebies, mostly Snowcap, that I won't be cloning. Using 1,150g of product, I produced 185g of sifted polm, about 155g of it "primo", or first grade, and 30g "secundo". I could have produced more but I usualy call a halt when there is a noticable darkening of the polm. The residue is usually refluxed in iso to give a 10:1 extraction, so I'll expect up to 100g of dark oil from this too. I've experimented with pressing the sift with varying results, and several iterations of press and mould later I've built a 10-ton hydraulic press and a stainless steel mould (10mm press plate in a 5mm wall mould) that doesn't buckle under pressure. (The stainless steel bit is important to me because I process med-grade). I've had good result at about 4 tons pressure with a one-inch square mould (before it warped), but 9 metric tons on a 9cmx9cm plate equals about... enough. Some primo grade sift was too sticky to push intact from the mould - I rolled some up into a fat tola. Most formed very flexible slabs whether 2 or 10mm thick.. The lower grade "secundo" made a lovely solid passport slate. Pictures attached: The tolas are sticky primo (Attitude freeby selection), the big and four small squares are another primo (from the NL/skunk trim) and the lighter thin rectangular slab is the secundo. All good stuff.
  17. As far as I read, CO2 bags are a less-kown method of supplying non-burning CO2 to plants. Apparently they are a typ of fungus called mycelium in a nutrient abient. When the fugnus grows, it generates CO2 until it exhaust all the nutrients. Sounds pertty simple to make. so I am wondering why this method are not used more frequently by micro-growers? On the other hand, the comercial CO2 bags like this one are rediculusly expensive on ebay. What I need to know to make such bag is where to get mycelium and what is the nutrient to put in the bag? If I know that I just put them together in a bag. Appreciate your hints.
  18. CO2 is like Marmite... you either love it or hate it. I love it, and having had a look around on the forums, some people have lost track of how CO2 can be of use in a grow room. Certain procedures have to be followed to get a result, but there are many ways to get CO2 into your system and benefit from it. Here's some short articles that might help you decide if CO2 is for you... I must credit RPsmoke for the research on this and the next post. Taking Advantage of CO2 Enrichment by Isabelle Lemay, agr. and Melissa Leveille Optimal photosynthesis, generally resulting in maximal growth and yields, is just one of the many benefits of CO2 enrichment in the garden. In order for your plants to really enjoy effective CO2 enrichment, it is important to do it the right way. The following article suggests different tricks to ensure these advantages are fully accessible to your plants. Choosing an appropriate enrichment method for the garden Certain criteria must be taken into consideration when choosing a source of CO2, such as the price, the impact on the garden’s climate and potential toxicity. However, bottled CO2 and combustion generators are the most effective and common way to enrich your garden. The importance of CO2 distribution in the cultural environment Once the ideal CO2 source is identified, the positioning of the equipment must be carefully studied to make sure the plants absorb the precious CO2 at maximum capacity. According to some research, the best results are obtained by injecting CO2 in the upper third part of the plants where photosynthetic activity is at its highest. CO2 movement in the air Several factors influence CO2 movement in the air, including some relatively simple physical principles. When these principles are understood, it is possible to foresee CO2 movement in the garden, and control it directly toward the leaf area. The first factor to consider is CO2’s weight. At ambient temperatures, CO2 tends to drop as its weight is heavier than the air’s weight (composed mainly of nitrogen and oxygen). For example, at 77°F, CO2 weighs 66 ounces per three feet cubed in comparison to 42 ounces per three feet cubed for the air. This means that CO2 will naturally go down to the ground. A second physical factor that influences CO2 movement is the temperature. Hot air tends to rise and cold air descends; this is also true for CO2. This is why the cold CO2 from the bottle will normally go down while the hot CO2 generated by combustion will rapidly rise up to the ceiling. The diffusion principle is also responsible for CO2 movement. Diffusion is simply explained by the fact that gas tends to take up as much room as possible. Generally, it will direct itself from a location where its concentration is elevated to another where its concentration is lower. Although this principle is applicable to CO2, this gas does not travel very far by simple diffusion. The air movement also influences significant CO2 displacement in the garden. In fact, CO2 follows the air path, which can be created with a fan. Here is an example to summarize the above statements. A garden is enriched with a regulated CO2 bottle. After the injection, CO2 tends to drop (weight and temperature) and then moves in the air towards the locations that are less concentrated (diffusion). Once CO2 is diffused in the air, it does not stay on the ground but instead follows the rising movement of the hot air (temperature and air movement). Effective distribution systems Regardless of which enrichment method is being used, good CO2 distribution in the garden is important so your plants can absorb it properly. To obtain a homogeneous CO2 concentration in the garden, it is beneficial to inject it at different locations. To do so, use several CO2 generators with average power in one room instead of one high flow rate unit. This same principle is also applicable to CO2 bottles. With bottled CO2, which tends to drop due to its weight and the temperature, it is logical and favorable to inject it lightly above the plants or directly at their third upper part. When CO2 comes from combustion, the generator’s location may vary; wherever it is, hot CO2 will rise up towards the ceiling anyway. However, it is important to avoid installing the generator directly on the ground to protect it against water damages or close to the ceiling to avoid fire hazards. Whatever the source is, it is beneficial to place it far from an exhaust fan to avoid wasting CO2 outside. Not only is it important to install CO2 sources in strategic locations, it is also recommended to use rotating fans to create air movement that quickly directs CO2 towards the plants. For bottled CO2, simply placing a fan near the gas outlet will move and distribute CO2 evenly around the room and the plants (figure one). For CO2 generators, a ceiling fan can be used to mix CO2 in the air and to bring it down to the plants’ level (figure one). Using fans is also really effective in renewing the air and CO2 around the plants. In just a few minutes, leaves can absorb all the available CO2 around them. Because this gas moves really slowly by diffusion and only on a short distance, ventilation is essential to provide the plants with a proper and stable concentration for their growth. In the case of bottled CO2, another ingenious and simple system is to connect a perforated plastic tube to the regulator and install it above the plants. CO2 will then be vaporized trough the small holes and homogeneously distributed near the plants (figure three). It is easily possible to pierce the holes on the tube by placing it under water while injecting CO2. The holes’ size and location will determine the CO2 distribution. A controller combined with an effective distribution system will maintain a precise and stable CO2 concentration in the garden. Like all other equipment, the controller must be installed at a logical location to be effective. It is only the CO2 sensor that has to be placed at a location representative of the concentration around the plants. Depending on the controller’s model, the sensor might be inside or outside the controller’s enclosure. It is best to install it in the center of the garden at a height that is equivalent to the upper third part of the foliage. This way, CO2 concentration will be steady near the plants and will perfectly fulfill their needs! A good application of the advices mentioned above will surely have a positive impact on your yield’s quality and quantity. However, other aspects have to be taken into consideration for ensuring optimal plant growth and avoid wasting CO2. Good climate management In order to fully benefit from CO2 enrichment, all of the environmental parameters must be well managed. It is important to perfectly master your plants’ needs on every level—temperature, relative humidity, lighting, CO2 concentration, etc. The moment one of these parameters is no longer ideal, it becomes an obstacle to plant growth. In a garden enriched with CO2, it is important to consider that the best temperature for plants will be slightly higher than usual. Effective gardening with CO2 requires careful planning and appropriate choices of equipments and layout, all based on the plant’s needs and the garden type. A predetermined plan for a perfect distribution system does not exist; the ideal plan varies for each cultural environment and is established according to a strict analysis of the location. Finally, the best CO2 enrichment system will only be effective if all of the plant’s needs are satisfied!