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Found 12 results

  1. From the album cannathc

    A few days before harvesting some of my crop
  2. Gorilla Glue #4

    Here is a bigger picture of 1 of the gorilla glue 4 auto, wondering why the tips of the leaves are turning yellow/whit in colour.
  3. Gorilla glue #4 auto what is the problem

    Please can someone tell me why the leaves are turning a pale colour an then turning white/yellow.
  4. Hello there boys and girls. I got new babies for my new grow. I usually wait till some roots are sticking through rockwool before putting them in NFT. Then maybe once a day I use a pump to wet the spread mat and feed them with a syringe for couple of days before more roots appear. But once I put them in NFT, one day later they started yellowing, so I took them out to get more roots, and then gonna put them back in. And this is how they look like: As you can see, they are developing lighter stripes. Im not sure what could be wrong here. It would be normal if the lower leaves where yellowing, but this is the whole plant. Anyone has any ideas? or suggestions what to do? Thank you everyone!
  5. This is my first time using autopots and I've come across a massive salt buildup problem to the point where I'm starting to see it appear on top of the coco and my plants are turning pale green/yellow. I think the problem is that since starting on the autopots they have only had one feed of ph'd water (around 3L each from res over 4/5 days) between veg and flower. I'm now on day 27 of flower and my guess is that the salt buildup has caused the ph of my medium to drop and lockout some nutrients. I first noticed a week ago that my plants had started to turn a lighter shade of green and one plant had started to get yellowing fan leaves. I thought this was an N deficiency so I upped the N in my next feed and shit has got way worse, now almost every plant has yellowing fan leaves with some getting rusty blotches spreading from the inside out. I have cleaned out my res and filled it with ph'd water, I'm planning on flushing them for 3/4 days and going from there. Is this the route you would take? If anybody has any experience using autopots how often do u feed just water and what nutes do you use? I'm currently using the full ionic range with the coco base nutes. Any replies would be appreciated. Cheers
  6. Hey people. I have been reading on this site for a while and based on some of the really impressive organic grows I have seen here I decided to give it a go! Unfortunately, I am already running into some issues and really need the help of some more knowledgeable people which is why I am here! Hopefully as I educate myself Id try help out also. I have started some Sensi Seeds Northern lights in some miracle grow seedling mix and im 22 days in but seem to be having some nutrient issues. I am seeing what I consider slow growth and discoloring of leaves which begins with either small white dots or small rust colored dots. Pics attached. I have been giving them Plant magic Old timer grow, super-thrive and plant magic evolution (2 doses a week apart) and have been Phing the water (UK tap water left out for 24 hours) with lemon juice to 6.3-6.5. I gave one watering of Organic Cal-Mag and some molasses but even with this and PM evolution the leaves have got worse. Im quite confused as PM old timer is supposed to work well with UK water and supposed to be good as a stand alone product but even Phing im getting quite severe issues. I have just moved them into larger containers with soil supreme yesterday but I am very worried about the state of them and its a little heart breaking tbh. If anybody could advise me on what the problem could be or any extra steps to take it would be greatly appreciated!
  7. My plants so far: 1 x Afghani Skunk Auto, 1 x Anibus Auto, Both in Westlands John Innes, potting soil have been for 50 Days, Temps are at a steady 27C at canopy, and using 300W CFL, (have the light at about 2.5Inches from plants). They've both been on 1.5ml / ltr BioBizz Grow for about 2 weeks, and I started 1ml of BB bloom climbed to 2ml/ltr over the last 2 weeks, I stopped grow on Wednesday last week, and have just went to 24/7 for lighting (helps maintain the temps, and they're Autos..... ) since they're Autos and I only have about 800mm in grow height I went with 4.5Ltr pots, I'm started to get yellowing about 5 / 6 days ago so I gave another feed of Grow, told it could have been Nitrogen def, but the leaves are starting to look brown, (I find it difficult as I have trouble with green, red and brown, my eyes see them, when grouped as more red than brown, but we can talk about my colour vision defect another time ).... I've been told that it could be lack of Oxygen to the roots, and I'm tempted to explore an air pump for my water storage, as I have a 25ltr barrel, that just basically saves me dragging bottle after bottle to the "out-house". just wanted to cast the net far and wide and see what others thought? Cheers in Advance. Dweeeb
  8. Hey dudes! This is my 2nd grow i'm growing 4 plants (all different strains) that are photoperiods in a 1mx1m tent. im using air pots, a 400w HID with a lumii digital ballast with a built in timer, a parabolic reflector, I have a inlet fan placed just above the pots & 6" carbon filter! Im using BioBizz Nutrients feeding on a ratio on water, nute, water, nute and so on... I'm also using Maxicrop seaweed extract. Also i must state i am using biobizz light mix soil 60% and coco peat 40% As you can tell this is an organic grow so i knew it would be harder than my last grow which wasnt... Im having a little trouble at the mo, i've nocked them over into flowering about 1 week ago and i've noticed the leafs have changed a lighter shade of green and starting to yellow a little, Also i've seen white tips on one plant (Sweet Cheese) thats quite bad & its slowly creaping up on the other plants. I use a 1000ML jug of water to mix the nutes for 1 plant & The nute ratio's i use in this jug during the flowering stage are: 2mm of Maxicrop seaweed extract, 3mm of Biogrow, 4mm of Bio-Bloom & 2mm of TopMax. I've never been one to check PH or any of that jazz as i'm now an organic farmer and buy top quality soils which are already PH'd. If you guys could give me a some expert tips in what you think you can see is wrong or what i need to do to get these girls back into there healthy green luscious state then please fire ahead! Ive also tried epsom salts & biobizz fish mix that a few members previously advised to me on here, But it seems to have just got worse. Ive posted some pictures of the yellowing leafs i've removed here: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?app=galleryℑ=277283
  9. Ok so my little seedlings seem to be going a bit yellow. I've heard could be a N deficiency, nute lock out and some other things that aren't in my head right now. I know I shouldn't be giving them nutes yet so I haven't, should I? there isn't any curling of leaves. I water them every second day until I see water start coming out the bottom. Maybe I should water every day? 2 out of 3 have this issue, the only one that didn't had some issues earlier on which seemed to sort itself out. As you can see it's only effecting the lower leaves so far. Anyway any veteran growers know what to do? need info I've left out? just ask and I'll do what I can to answer.
  10. Hi guys, I have a Female Seeds C99 currently at Week 7 of 12/12. I was feeding 1.5ml of Bloom gradually working my way up to 3ml Bloom since Week 3 of 12/12. Before that it was around 2.5ml of Grow for the first 2-3 weeks of 12/12 as I have seen other growers here do it and it helps keep the plant green longer. This is my 2nd grow using the 'new' more liquid PM OT Bloom, and the 2nd time I've experienced rapid yellowing since around Week 5 of 12/12, so I'm guessing it's the new formula which others have had problems with to according to this thread: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=325080 Basically my plant was looking healthy and green until around week 5 when it started getting pale up top. As I would usually do, I upped the feed from 3ml to 4ml and from week 5 onwards the plant hasn't gotten any better, in fact it's looking worse. My setup is as follows: 250w HPS + Euro reflector 5" RVK 5 litre pots with Canna Terra Pro soil PM Magic OT Grow wand Bloom Rootzone Temps are 22-24 lights on, 21-23 lights off I think I have at least 2/3 weeks before chop, but I wanted to ask the experienced growers here what they would do at this stage. My aim is to avoid crusty burnt brown bud leaves as you sometimes end up with, I just want the plant to be in decent shape until chop day. And what have I done wrong? Has anyone managed to suss out this OT Bloom issue, have I overfed? I haven't bothered to post this in the Plant Magic section because after about a year of this problem I've yet to see anyone from Plant Magic come on here and acknowledge there's an issue, or to revise their feeding schedule according to the new formula. It's a shame as I used to have blinding results with PM, but now I'm not so confident in this product anymore. Here is the plant which was topped and trained (quite poorly) and is only about 5 inches or so from the bulb, so I may have bleaching also.
  11. How you doin folks Ive been struggling with yellowing from week 3 onwards with just about everything ive grown so far and its doin ma box in I dont know if its basic under or overfeeding or cal/mag def but my inexperience means that im scared to up or lower feeds I'm sort of following Oldtimers biobizz guide, tho i have only went up to 3ml per litre of bloom a cpl of times my routine in flower goes something like this -- 1ml ish per litre grow every watering first watering no bloom, 1ml/l from then until about day 14 when bud sites are forming and then up it by .5ml/l every other watering until i get to 2.5ml/l, ive pushed on to 3ml but ive always thought ive seen burning and backed off a cpl of times ive gave them a dose of epsoms, no change except to speed up yellowing anyway, enough of the chatterini, heres the evidence this plant had a dose of epsoms about 10 days ago a pic from yesterday under hps This is a cut of one of Highgrowers sshxmangoxbjxnepxsb that i would love to keep green till the end, but its going the same way as its mum heres how it looked a week ago its from a different angle but its clearly went down hill Im kicking maself for not askin about this earlier cos ive only been pulling about 50g a plant from my killerskunks vegged for a good while in 6.5 litre pots,,, but you know how it is man, prides a bastart more info on grow in ma profile I also own pm bio silicon, humbolt equilibrium cal/mag, rhizo tonic and maxicrop seaweed but im too feart to use them PLEASE HELP cheers JS
  12. Well, what a poor year I've had in terms of harvesting. Since around April I haven't had a single grow due to issues with my hydro system so I've had to make do with costly street weed for months but now I finally think I've cracked the problem- fingers crossed. Anyhoo, I thought I would post my trouble for future reference seeing as I can't find any one specific post covering these amalgamated issues I've been having so it may help someone trying this some day. I had been previously growing quite well in a modified wilma with a strain I no longer have but due to the way a friend was growing and having more success with less plants, I was persuaded to switch to his method and his strain (which I happen to be fond of). The idea being he would come in for the early days and show me what he was doing precisely so I could mimic it and what he basically does is this:- He only works from clones (same as me) and he roots into the smaller 1inch rockwool cubes first before transplanting to a larger 4 inch blocks when roots appear. He then allows the plants to root into the big rockwool blocks before transplating to a regular waterfarm where they are fed 24/7 by the waterfarm drip. He veges his plants out under a 125 CFL for 4 weeks before taking the pot the plant is in, leaving behind the original waterfarm res and transplants it to a larger res ( custom built - around 90 litres ) where he will allow them a week to settle in before flipping to flower. The waterfarm pots sit suspended in the res from the pot rim but the water level only comes up to just below the bottom of the pot so there's maybe 25 liters of soup in the res. He also runs his drippers 24/7 so it's like a recirc system with water constantly flowing. Oh he also runs air stones in the res but his air pump is about half as powerful as mine. All in all a simple process which works well for him and he pulls around 25 - 30 oz off two - three plants. Plenty to keep him happy for a few months. Unfortunately since trying his strain and method all my plants just kept turning yellow from the center of the plant outwards (like iron deficiency) before crisping up and dying. I've been trying for months but as soon as I transplant my girls into veg from well rooted clones, they all do the same thing. The plants sit in a stalled state before slowly starting yellow from the growing tip outwards and die and I've tried everything I've read over the past few months trying to solve the issue and nothing has worked. Finally last night after doing some extensive research I began to realise that my plants were drowning due to a catch 22 situation this system creates. What I can't work out is why it works so well for him but not for me. Every attempt we've both tried in my room has failed and yet we do exactly here what he does at his grow even down to temps and humidity. Anyway, basically what I think I've figured out is happneing in my room is this..... If I run a 24 hour drip, the rockwool holds far too much water and the roots drown and refuse to develop beyond the roots that were originally emerging from the rockwool when transplanted and even then they start to deteriorate and go brittle and die once put into the modded waterfarm. On the other hand, due to the plants being sat in around 8 litres of clay balls, If I don't water often enough it's the clay balls which dry out quicker than the rockwool which stops all root growth in it's path since they get so far and dry out. Basically with this method, for some reason I can't find a balance between enough water to keep the clay balls wet without soaking the rockwool (even when bypassing the use of the larger rockwool cubes and using only 1 inch cubes) they still stay soaked and appear to drown the roots before they can grow out sufficinetly into the clay balls.) I've tried lean watering schedules where I only water for a few minutes every 4 hours to even leaner schedules where I only water once before lights on and once when lights are off but the rockwool being a sponge just wicks it up and holds it to the point where the plants just don't like it and refuse to develop. When I've removed these failed attempts from the hydroton in the past, it's always the same scene... Soggy rockwool and badly developed brittle roots which often show signs of air pruning where the clay has dried but the rockwool has remained soaking. In a last ditch attempt what I've now done with my current grow attempt is to raise the water level in the res up so that around two thirds of the pot with the clay balls in is submerged so that the water level is now maybe 1 - 2 inches below where the small rockwool cube is. Hopefully this will wick up just enough water without soaking the rockwool while being far enough away (but not too far so the clay between the water level and the rockwool dry out) to encourage root growth down and away from the cube. With the water level previously being below the bottom of the waterfarm pot, the clone would have to grow down 6 or more dry inches of clay balls to get to the water. At the minute the pots the plants are in sound like a couple of bowls of crispy rice bubbling and popping - it sounds good so I hope it does the job! With my current grow the plants have been in the system for about a week and a half and still haven't sent any roots down BUT they aren't yellowing but at the same time they've not really grown any either. With these plants I've tried various watering times etc and after all my reading about individual similar symptoms and issue across the various hybrid techniques I appear to be using last night, I'm hoping this idea will work as a compromise. I think next time I'm going to go with an aero cloner and do away with rockwool altogether as I'm absolutely convinced they are drowning before they can take off. To prove this to myself I did an experiment where I put a couple of clones into some small pots with clay balls and hand watered them sparingly and they are all green and lush but as soon as I put one in this system they go yellow and die so I figure I'm on the right lines now. It's only taken me over half a year Anyway, if anyone has an trouble using a system like this and it sounds similar, it might be something to do with the balance between the moisture level of the rockwool and the clay balls being out of sync. Again why it works for my friend (I've seen his grows and they're all green and healthy and around 4 - 5 ft after the stretch) I don't know and probably never will. I'm just hoping I have hit the nail on the head. Only time will tell. I only raised the level today and I may need to lower it a little if the rockwool is still wicking up too much water. Ideally I want the stuff to be damp but not ringing wet like it's always been in the past when it's failed. Sorry for the long essae and thanks for reading!